cranks, cranks...nothing - $150
4wd Low
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
if you have a bad battery wire and or terminal its pretty easy to check it.If you have a voltage reader you can check voltage at the battery and at each individual wire and see if there is any voltage drops on either one.If there is a voltage drop you can do whats called an overlay which means overlay the bad wire with a good one,piggy back if you will.if its the problem, that will fix it and tell you it is.though i doubt it is the problem.
Mudding
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
if you have a bad battery wire and or terminal its pretty easy to check it.If you have a voltage reader you can check voltage at the battery and at each individual wire and see if there is any voltage drops on either one.If there is a voltage drop you can do whats called an overlay which means overlay the bad wire with a good one,piggy back if you will.if its the problem, that will fix it and tell you it is.though i doubt it is the problem.
A one time check with a meter will not be reliable to check an intermittent problem. If it were a bad wire 100% of the time it already would have been obvious that is what it is.
Since the computer isn't reliable with changes in voltage I'd do the new + cable and either clean and be sure of battery connection with stock connectors or replace those too.
It is not going to be a common problem because you have covered all that.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Angola In.
Throw a new set of plugs in it, disable the fuel pump, open the throttle,crank it. Sounds like its very flooded to me!!!! If it starts for a short time and dies, try it a few more times before you enable the pump. Keep the throttle open until it revs above 2000/2500 rpm.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 2
From:
check yer spark amplifier module.
It sounds like you're getting spark and fuel but just not enough.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1184.cfm
It sounds like you're getting spark and fuel but just not enough.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/STC1184.cfm
Rock Crawling
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 278
Likes: 2
From:
from what I understand there is a service bulletin about the engine heat destroying the spark amplifier and there is a relocation kit available for this problem.
Check all your connections before buying a new amplifier but I'd put my $150 on this being the fix.
I'm not sure if this is applicable to your rig but it's worth a look:
http://www.solihullsociety.org/archives/107
Check all your connections before buying a new amplifier but I'd put my $150 on this being the fix.
The official Technical Service Bulletin on the subject states that typical symptoms are a poor start or non-start, due to failure of the module to control the coil primary current accurately. This can result in dwell angles up to 40 degrees at idle. The excess heat the module is exposed to can cause the insulation to leak out, and eventually cause it to fail completely. This may be accompanied by coil leakage and/or failure. The remote mounting kit is designed to fix the problem by reducing heat, vibration and electrical interference
http://www.solihullsociety.org/archives/107
Last edited by unstable; Jun 5, 2009 at 02:17 PM.
Mudding
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
I had an odd problem like that on my 2000 disco 2. The battery would not stay charged regularly and with the low voltage state it led to all kinds of computer issues that by the look of it should have been a security system problem.
For me it turned out to be a rotten positive cable from the alternator to the battery. It was causing intermittent failures of the charging system.
The battery checked out good but the alternator seemed bad. I changed the alternator and the new one tested bad then with the testor at the auto parts store it went good again.
The solution for me was buying a new positive cable from the auto parts store, leaving the stock one in place and running that to the battery. I also cut off the positive and negative terminals and put on new ones to be really sure the power was there and connected.
Fixed it and has been fine since.
Not sure it will fix it but it is an inexpensive thing to do and is good for the power system even if there is no problem with it causing the issue.
For me it turned out to be a rotten positive cable from the alternator to the battery. It was causing intermittent failures of the charging system.
The battery checked out good but the alternator seemed bad. I changed the alternator and the new one tested bad then with the testor at the auto parts store it went good again.
The solution for me was buying a new positive cable from the auto parts store, leaving the stock one in place and running that to the battery. I also cut off the positive and negative terminals and put on new ones to be really sure the power was there and connected.
Fixed it and has been fine since.
Not sure it will fix it but it is an inexpensive thing to do and is good for the power system even if there is no problem with it causing the issue.
I wouldn't take the $150.00 but always thought of possibly starting a web site with bounties like that!!!
