Take your battery out and get it charged for 2 hours, reinstall it and go straight to the auto parts store and have them test both the alternator and battery, should have between 13.6 and 14.4 volts with the engine running.

 

Hey guys- you know that it doesn't try to turn over or anything, but all the electronics and high-beams work, right?

And that an hour before I noticed it dead, it was running fine?

Could it still be the battery or alternator?

Thanks again, guys!

 

Sounds like your starter is toast.
BUT before we say that put your key in the drivers door with it closed and lock/unlock the truck 3 times.
Then try and start it.
If it still wont turn over then check all of the battery cables from the starter to the battery.
Either your starter interrupt has been tripped, the starter is bad or the starter is not getting enough power.

 

Okay... I'm pretty sure it's literally impossible to ground out the starter in these.

The thick positive cable that hooks into the solenoid is surrounded by rubber, and there is no bolt, nut, or terminal to make contact with.

I'm going to try to get RAVE going to pull the thing.

 

FYI guys,

I found someone on Craigslist who is going to come out in the morning and pull it for me, for $50. We'll see.... I'll keep you guys posted.

Thanks!

Pat

 

UPDATE!

Hey guys,

I went out this morning just to give it a shot- you never know.

Well, it FIRED UP.

Here's what it did: I turned the key to start, and I get the "clunk" that I've been getting. I keep holding it for a couple seconds, and suddenly I get another clunk, and it turns over and fires up!!

I've shut it off and turned it back on a dozen times, and it starts every time with zero delay.

Last night, I tried holding it down for ten, twenty seconds and it never did anything.

What do you guys make of it? Should I still have the starter pulled and tested?

Let me know your thoughts!

THANKS!

Pat

 

I still stand behind the jammed bendix, I would think keeping power on it finally got it free. I have had a few vehicles where that would happen every now and then and sometimes that would work (I usually would just tap it with a hammer since I dont like running all that power to the starter for that long)

 

I have had this with other vehicles. sometimes it was a jammed bendix but I was using an Isuzu (yeah I know) and it was a problem with the starter cable to the motor. I can't recall if it was earthing or not earthing but I replaced the whole cable and post and it was fine after that. I happen to think your tapping of the motor could have helped after all. I would start with a replacement cable and then if it happens again, open it up and check the bendix.

 

I think you guys are right- I drove to my office this morning, and dropped the Rover off to the local garage. I told them to spend 3 or 4 hours checking all the connections, testing the starter, alternator, and battery, to check out a coolant leak, and to rotate the tires.

We'll see what they come up with!

Thanks again, brothers.

Pat

 

Sometimes if you hit the wrong buttons on the remote key fob as you are starting the car, you can put your superlock immobilization into effect. Just happened to my wife thats how I know. Same thing electrics worked but no start. When I put my OBD2 scanner on I think the code was P1668 superlock
The dealer can set up your fob to roll windows down or lockout your ignition or turn on your headlights for a set period of time when you lock the car to give you a path of light. My wife's fob does all of that.
Good Luck
Ernie