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Crazy idle

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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 07:19 PM
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Default Crazy idle

ok did the head gaskets and got the alternator put on today and fire it up. Purred like a kitten. The problem I am having is that once you rev the engine up, it won't go back to idle. I've got everything hooked up except for the y pipe to muffler. Any ideas guys and gals. It's driving me bonkers. I'm gonna dig more into it tommorow morning but need ideas of what it could be. The cable isn't stuck and returns freely as does the butterfly on the throttle body.
Jason
 
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 07:28 PM
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I think I need to elaborate a bit more and say that it is fine idling when sitting still. It's when you press the gas or move the throttle cable, the cable and pedal returns to the normal position but the idle stays as high as it was when I let off. I have checked all connections and can't find anything loose.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 09:12 PM
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try unplugging the idle air control and start the engine, let it run for few mins and check changes, then plug it back and start few mins again and note if any changes
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by LR03NJ
try unplugging the idle air control and start the engine, let it run for few mins and check changes, then plug it back and start few mins again and note if any changes
did that and no changes. I'm beginning to think it might be with the throttle position sensor but all worked well before disassembly
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 01:21 PM
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I could it to idle normally a few times with it in Drive but as soon as I left off the gas, it's showing 2500-3000 rpm. I'm at a lost n it's messing with me. I know everything is hooked up and connected right just at a loss what could cause it
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 01:40 PM
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Are the hoses to the IAC motor tight? Is the nipple on the main intake hose in good condition and not loose/broken (I've seen them just fall apart). Also the IAC motor itself, have you removed it, and sprayed it down with carb cleaner? They can get GROSS and stick. Normally with the key on the II position you'll hear them buzz a little bit.

I bought an 04 D2 once that had a throttle body that looked more like a garbage disposal, and the IAC was just as bad. The IAC motor if clean you can normally spin it and the internal part will rotate. If it's nasty it can be stuck or sticking.

I'd remove the air intake hose, inspect the throttle body, and certainly take the IAC off and clean it. Then see what happens.

I have like 3-4 Throttle bodies laying around (LR used to replace the entire thing for the stupid throttle body heater plate leaking). I might be able to remove the TPS and send it to ya if you don't get any change after inspecting the Throttle Body/IAC.

Do you have a scanner to see if it's popping any pending codes? These Bosch based D2's are pretty picky when it comes to setting fault codes.

One other thing just to check as a CYA is the actual throttle cable. It has that silly mount on the intake that secures the two cables (Cruise Control/Throttle) and it can get out of wack pretty easy especially if it's been completely removed. Make sure it's still adjusted properly. You're supposed to have like 2-4mm between each one before it will activate the throttle body valve. I've got mine adjusted more like 1-2mm so I have a quicker throttle response and the Cruise Control doesn't surge as it's engaging.
 

Last edited by Best4x4; Feb 5, 2017 at 01:53 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 04:14 PM
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Got it fixed up. Took apart the throttle body and adjusted the throttle cable. I don't believe when I had it powdercoated, I wrapped the springs around enough to give it enough tension. Got it sorted out and ran like a dream. Now it's throwing up the srs red light and the rear air ride suspension in yellow or green. Never had those lights before and it has been converted to coil already and changed via testbook by the previous owner
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 06:05 PM
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SRS light could be the seatbelt tensioners. The connections under the seat are rather delicate. Weird about the SLS faults! I have slapped a SLS programmed SLABS into my 03 parts truck and to this day it has never faulted with an SLS fault. have you removed the relays for it under the hood? On my 99 I just slapped in my 03 unit, and removed the relay under the hood and nada. I even went as far as to remove every single SLS item except for the actual harness which I have tucked up on the frame rail. All air lines, solenoids, pump, height sensors, vent are completely gone.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2017 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
SRS light could be the seatbelt tensioners. The connections under the seat are rather delicate. Weird about the SLS faults! I have slapped a SLS programmed SLABS into my 03 parts truck and to this day it has never faulted with an SLS fault. have you removed the relays for it under the hood? On my 99 I just slapped in my 03 unit, and removed the relay under the hood and nada. I even went as far as to remove every single SLS item except for the actual harness which I have tucked up on the frame rail. All air lines, solenoids, pump, height sensors, vent are completely gone.
no it was all done by the previous owner. The air lines are gone but the fuses and sensors and I believe the compressor are still in place. I'll have to wiggle the wires under the seats for the srs.
 
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