Just before leaving on a five day trip I noticed a creaking sound from my front end. This seemed to start just after replacing my steering rod and drag link. They were greased, but I pulled them and greased every part of the ball joints, then put them back on. I still hear the creaking. A couple of days ago while out of town, I heard a pop when turning. I isolated the location in my turn (turning left) where the pop occurred then, with help, got under the truck. I could not tell exactly where it was coming from but it seemed higher than the new components noted above. Then I heard it when I shifted from reverse to drive, regardless of turn.

My front ball joints no longer have boots and are original. I have replacements (Moog) but I haven't tackled that project yet.

Is this likely to be ball joints? Why would they creak and pop? Is there any way to further diagnose this?

I'm going to replace the ball joints this week but I'd like to order whatever else I might need.

With a gun to my head I would say that the pop noise came from the power steering box but I can't imagine why it would make such a noise and it would be an outrageous coincidence for it to start making a noise right after creaking in the ball joints started. Still...

 

all you can really do is jack the frontend up and put a bar under the wheel and see if you have any up/down play

 

I'll try that to see if I can find the pop but I'm definitely putting the new ball joints on. The boots have been dessicated for years. My rover sat in the garage for five years and they completely dried up. I've driven it three years since then... borrowed time.

 

With the boots torn, yes, your ball joints can go try and will slip with wear, especially when wheeling to the point of popping one loose and dropping.
Might also check the 3 bushings on each radius arm, if worn they will pop when the vehicle is turning or even shifting from drive to reverse.

 

I didn't even look at the radius arms... thanks!

 

Just a thought, is the 'pop' and 'creaking' coming from the PAS box?

Apologies, I didn't read your post in full.

 

No worries; my posts are generally too long. I'm going to check the radius arms but when I was in San Antonio the pop did sound higher, in the area of the PAS. It was hard to tell. I have a new power steering PUMP awaiting installation because my current one barely made it through the last winter. I don't think it is the pump but I may well be something else in the system.

 

I got everything off except the ball joints. The harbor freight ball joint set is complete CRAP. I'm going to get a quality set tomorrow morning and finish the job. I'm using Moog replacements.

It was too dark to see the radius arm bushings but I'll check them in the morning.

 

Got the new ball joints on. Very satisfying. Didn't solve the problem.

I'm guessing control arm bushings are next. They are fifteen years old so Okay. Do I really need a twenty ton press?! . Lord.

 

I was wrong. The creaking and popping is gone. It was the ball joints. I guess I'm still lucky on the other bits but at least I will have a idea what to look for if I hear odd sounds again.

Replacing the ball joints is the second most immediate positive change I have ever made on my truck, right after head gaskets. I'd never seen a ball joint before doing this project. Mine must have been really bad because when I replaced one side, my steering wheel was upside down.

For posterity, I did the job with a large kit on loan from an auto store and Moog upper a lower joints. The first side was a real bear because our joints angle toward the springs and because nothing in the kit would press out the top joint. On youtube they make a part... MAKE... to do the job. My solution was to push the ball joint up through the cup... to break it... then use an impact socket to push out the cup. I took longer than the first monkey with a stick at a termite mound to figure that out. The second side went very quick. Impact sockets work great.

Remove the top first, then the bottom. Put the new bottom one on first, then the top.

With two jacks you can lower the side you are working on to solve the angle/spring issue but, of course, it dumps diff oil everywhere. Later you will discovery the crappy plastic diff plugs for filling, then probably order some brass ones like I did.

You need 15mm, 19mm, and 10mm if memory serves, and a short extension. Jack both side of the axle. You also need an Allen wrench to remove the ABS sensor. I left my CV joints connected to the hub and that worked fine.

I ended with a driveway alignment using using tape measure and straightening the steering wheel.

I not a mechanic. Anyone can do this.