I'm still getting used to the Discovery and am also working my way through numerous "issues" that came with it. At the moment, I am focusing upon the cruise control which doesn't work

Step One:replace the switches on the steering wheel (old ones broken off and wires ripped out before I bought it). Done but no progress.
Step Two: check that vacuum "pump" works. Applying 12v across the relevant terminals brings it to life. No progress.
Step Three: look into the brake pedal switch and here I may be getting somewhere......

The brake pedal switch fitted to my car is part number XKB100170 which, according to Rimmer Brothers website, is the one used on early Range Rover 2s (up to 1998) and early Freelanders.

However, the website says that my car should have had either XKB000010 (early cars) or more likely the later car's XKB500120 (with YMQ503280 wiring adaptor).

Does anyone know the system well enough to tell me if the early one would work or if I need to invest the necessary £35/$50 in the correct items? My suspicion is that the wrong switch being fitted means that the system thinks that my foot is on the brake pedal and is preventing it from engaging.

Or have I missed something really obvious? Does anyone have a test procedure that I try out with no specialist equipment?

thanks in advance

 

I have pulled many XKB100170 switches from the hundreds of DII's and P38's I've parted. I have seldom seen either XKB000010/YQM503280 or the updated XKB500210/YQM503280 switch in any of them. I would say you could use whichever one you can find.

The picture below is of the early style XKB100170 and the newest version XKB500210/YQM503280.

I've also provided a link to the XKB000010 available from Atlantic British just for reference. You would also need the expensive part, the cable YQM503280.

Brake Light Switch & Wiring Assembly Kit (Genuine Part # XKB500120 ) - Land Rover switches from Atlantic British

 

Thanks for the quick reply, Paul - sadly it asks as many questions as it answers!

Another thing that crossed my mind yesterday is that there appears to be no interlock between the brake pedal and the automatic transmission selector: I can change gears whether the ignition is switched on or not and whether my foot is on the brake or not. I also can't find any reference in RAVE or suppliers' websites to the existence of an inhibitor/solenoid on a D2.

It seems odd that there is no interlock - if that is how it's meant to be, it's the only automatic car I've ever driven that will let me engage gears without my foot on the brake.

I should add that the bake lights work perfectly.

 

If you remove the transmission gear shift **** and the shift illumination unit you will see where the solenoid is located. Be careful pulling up on the shift ****. You don't want to give yourself a black eye. The illumination unit will pop up and out. You can then see the small plunger coming from the solenoid. The solenoid is to the right and the plunger is a little left and down in the photo below.

I've seen plenty of 14CUX and GEMS trucks come through for parting that had been modified so the solenoid wouldn't interfere with shifting but I've not seen it on DII's. Typically, when the solenoid fails people come to me for a used shift assembly. The solenoids and the shift assembly are so reliable that used ones sell pretty cheap.

 

Again, thanks. I'll check it out tomorrow (dark and late here now).

The vehicle clearly know what position the selector is in because I get the correct indications on the LCD display on the instrument panel and I can't imagine that the position of the solenoid would have a bearing on the behaviour of the cruise ECU (although obviously the selector position would, a fact confirmed by RAVE). That makes me think that the XYZ switch and selector adjustment are OK

I'll report back tomorrow

 

I hate to mention the obvious, but is the main switch turned on?

 

Yes and the light in the switch is on. Fuses are OK, too.

Of course it could be something nice and expensive like a faulty ECU

EDIT: just looked on ebay - the ECU is cheaper than the brake pedal switch

 

I think that's because the ecu rarely goes bad in D2. I think Paul sells a conversation kit (ecu and pigtail) to put it in a D1, where the ECU goes bad a bit more often.

 

I haven't had a look at the shifter interlock yet - work keeps getting in the way!

 

Have you checked or replaced the cruise control vacuum hose? It's the most common cause of failure and the least expensive and easiest to correct.