Cruise control not working
#11
The cruise control system does not hook into any of the other vacuum systems on the engine. It has its own vacuum pump.
From memory, there should be TWO vacuum hoses associated with it -- one loops around from a port on the lower side of the vacuum pump to another port near the top of the same housing (the vacuum control unit), and the other goes from the bottom of the vacuum pump to the bellows device that is attached to the second throttle cable. If any of those pieces are missing, it may not be obvious that there is supposed to be something there. The best pictures I can find in the RAVE are on page 18-2-71 and 18-2-73 but even those are not very good.
From memory, there should be TWO vacuum hoses associated with it -- one loops around from a port on the lower side of the vacuum pump to another port near the top of the same housing (the vacuum control unit), and the other goes from the bottom of the vacuum pump to the bellows device that is attached to the second throttle cable. If any of those pieces are missing, it may not be obvious that there is supposed to be something there. The best pictures I can find in the RAVE are on page 18-2-71 and 18-2-73 but even those are not very good.
#12
D2’s have one vacuum line, from the pump to the bladder looking device. On a D2 it’s either the old style brake switch giving an issue, spiral cassette (you’d notice no horn, no radio controls, and no cruise control), LED brake bulbs, or possibly a dead vacuum pump.
The old style brake switch had different contacts inside of it for brake lights & cruise control activation. I’ve torn them apart for kicks and found em completely broken inside or sometimes just dirty contacts. New style brake switch (available at Auto Zone & it’s actually a LR part) is a much better design.
The Hella CC ECU is pretty robust, and I’ve seen maybe 1-2 die vs hundreds of the D1 CC ECU. I actually installed the P38/D2 CC ECU Into my 98 D1 and the CC was flawless after that!
The old style brake switch had different contacts inside of it for brake lights & cruise control activation. I’ve torn them apart for kicks and found em completely broken inside or sometimes just dirty contacts. New style brake switch (available at Auto Zone & it’s actually a LR part) is a much better design.
The Hella CC ECU is pretty robust, and I’ve seen maybe 1-2 die vs hundreds of the D1 CC ECU. I actually installed the P38/D2 CC ECU Into my 98 D1 and the CC was flawless after that!
#13
D2’s have one vacuum line, from the pump to the bladder looking device. On a D2 it’s either the old style brake switch giving an issue, spiral cassette (you’d notice no horn, no radio controls, and no cruise control), LED brake bulbs, or possibly a dead vacuum pump.
The old style brake switch had different contacts inside of it for brake lights & cruise control activation. I’ve torn them apart for kicks and found em completely broken inside or sometimes just dirty contacts. New style brake switch (available at Auto Zone & it’s actually a LR part) is a much better design.
The Hella CC ECU is pretty robust, and I’ve seen maybe 1-2 die vs hundreds of the D1 CC ECU. I actually installed the P38/D2 CC ECU Into my 98 D1 and the CC was flawless after that!
The old style brake switch had different contacts inside of it for brake lights & cruise control activation. I’ve torn them apart for kicks and found em completely broken inside or sometimes just dirty contacts. New style brake switch (available at Auto Zone & it’s actually a LR part) is a much better design.
The Hella CC ECU is pretty robust, and I’ve seen maybe 1-2 die vs hundreds of the D1 CC ECU. I actually installed the P38/D2 CC ECU Into my 98 D1 and the CC was flawless after that!
#14
Quick update: I replaced the switch on the brake pedal, and there was no change. Nanocom still reads the same and no CC.
Is there a similar switch on the E-brake? The light on the dash works, but I wonder if it has the same issue as described by Best above as the pedal switch.
Checked all the fuses and electrical links noted in the Rave link above as well and no apparent issues there.
Vacuum line is new. The diaphragm seems to be in good shape, but even if it weren’t, shouldn’t I still get some indicator the system is working (I’ve heard mention of a click from the Hella CC ECU, but not getting any clicks.)
Thanks again folks.
Is there a similar switch on the E-brake? The light on the dash works, but I wonder if it has the same issue as described by Best above as the pedal switch.
Checked all the fuses and electrical links noted in the Rave link above as well and no apparent issues there.
Vacuum line is new. The diaphragm seems to be in good shape, but even if it weren’t, shouldn’t I still get some indicator the system is working (I’ve heard mention of a click from the Hella CC ECU, but not getting any clicks.)
Thanks again folks.
#15
Well your C/C light should illuminate when the button is pushed in (orange LED), and yes at speed going down the road you can hear the Hella C/C relays clicking, but very faintly. Did you verify the bladder was able to hold a vacuum? Just disconnect the line from the pump side & suck on it. If the bladder stays pulled back then it’s good.
I’ve got a Nanocom & I’ll have to pull up the info & see what mine reads.
I’ve got a Nanocom & I’ll have to pull up the info & see what mine reads.
#16
Well your C/C light should illuminate when the button is pushed in (orange LED), and yes at speed going down the road you can hear the Hella C/C relays clicking, but very faintly. Did you verify the bladder was able to hold a vacuum? Just disconnect the line from the pump side & suck on it. If the bladder stays pulled back then it’s good.
I’ve got a Nanocom & I’ll have to pull up the info & see what mine reads.
I’ve got a Nanocom & I’ll have to pull up the info & see what mine reads.
I’ll have to recheck the actuator but it seemed to be ok. I’ll try your test next.
#20