Cruise Control Not Working: pictures included
#1
Cruise Control Not Working: pictures included
1. So I found the bladder: image 1 it seemed soft and pliable.
2. I also see where the hose(s) are supposed to attach at the bottom of the bladder: image 2
is it 2 hoses or 1 hose? If it is 1 hose I assume it goes on the black nipple, or the white? Does anything go on the other nipple if it is 1 hose?
3 the hose: image 3 is obviously broken; I know one end attaches at the bottom of the bladder...where does the opposite end go? I can’t find a location to complete the application.
Thanks
Doc
2. I also see where the hose(s) are supposed to attach at the bottom of the bladder: image 2
is it 2 hoses or 1 hose? If it is 1 hose I assume it goes on the black nipple, or the white? Does anything go on the other nipple if it is 1 hose?
3 the hose: image 3 is obviously broken; I know one end attaches at the bottom of the bladder...where does the opposite end go? I can’t find a location to complete the application.
Thanks
Doc
#3
So the hoses are all centered right there in that one assembly that has the pump, the actuator (the bladder thingy) and the rest. It makes total sense if you can see one put together.
In order to test the actuator, I removed the whole assembly and then the actuator itself and tested to see if it held pressure. The part that sucks is that the actuator is $100 to replace. In the 2 discos I’ve had, I’ve replaced an actuator and a pump.
Let me see if I’ve got any pics of it out and can post those here, but I’m assuming you’ve already confirmed everything in the cab is working as well, yes?
In order to test the actuator, I removed the whole assembly and then the actuator itself and tested to see if it held pressure. The part that sucks is that the actuator is $100 to replace. In the 2 discos I’ve had, I’ve replaced an actuator and a pump.
Let me see if I’ve got any pics of it out and can post those here, but I’m assuming you’ve already confirmed everything in the cab is working as well, yes?
#4
So the hoses are all centered right there in that one assembly that has the pump, the actuator (the bladder thingy) and the rest. It makes total sense if you can see one put together.
In order to test the actuator, I removed the whole assembly and then the actuator itself and tested to see if it held pressure. The part that sucks is that the actuator is $100 to replace. In the 2 discos I’ve had, I’ve replaced an actuator and a pump.
Let me see if I’ve got any pics of it out and can post those here, but I’m assuming you’ve already confirmed everything in the cab is working as well, yes?
In order to test the actuator, I removed the whole assembly and then the actuator itself and tested to see if it held pressure. The part that sucks is that the actuator is $100 to replace. In the 2 discos I’ve had, I’ve replaced an actuator and a pump.
Let me see if I’ve got any pics of it out and can post those here, but I’m assuming you’ve already confirmed everything in the cab is working as well, yes?
where does the “other end” of the hose go? I know one end attaches to the bottom of the bladder...but no clue where the other end goes.
thanks
doc
#5
OK, if the steering wheel controls don't work, anything under the hood is a waste of time. You will need to replace the clock spring or rotary coupler ($$$, or find a used one).
But here are a couple pics:
So the big hose is the output from the pump to the actuator. That is what sucks the actuator in, which is what pulls the cable on the other end leading to the throttle body. The other hoses are the air intake or something like that running from the pump or something- sorry can't remember everything, but hopefully the pics will give you some reference if you study them a bit.
But here are a couple pics:
So the big hose is the output from the pump to the actuator. That is what sucks the actuator in, which is what pulls the cable on the other end leading to the throttle body. The other hoses are the air intake or something like that running from the pump or something- sorry can't remember everything, but hopefully the pics will give you some reference if you study them a bit.
#7
Ok; I’m kinda not buying into that...the CC activates. It will not engage because the hose is broken and disconnected from the bladder.
Please explain this spring coupler, etc...
Doc
Please explain this spring coupler, etc...
Doc
OK, if the steering wheel controls don't work, anything under the hood is a waste of time. You will need to replace the clock spring or rotary coupler ($$$, or find a used one).
But here are a couple pics:
So the big hose is the output from the pump to the actuator. That is what sucks the actuator in, which is what pulls the cable on the other end leading to the throttle body. The other hoses are the air intake or something like that running from the pump or something- sorry can't remember everything, but hopefully the pics will give you some reference if you study them a bit.
But here are a couple pics:
So the big hose is the output from the pump to the actuator. That is what sucks the actuator in, which is what pulls the cable on the other end leading to the throttle body. The other hoses are the air intake or something like that running from the pump or something- sorry can't remember everything, but hopefully the pics will give you some reference if you study them a bit.
#8
#9
The other end goes to the actuator if I’m looking correctly. Follow the pics I posted or look up in the RAVE, or even look for pumps for sale on Ebay to learn the routing.
In terms of the rotary coupler, that’s what makes the radio and CC work on the steering wheel as it turns. If your radio controls don’t work either, that is the issue. Lots documented out there on all this stuff. There is a thread here if you search that will run you through some great procedures.
My point was that in order to send a signal to the pump under the hood, the switches have to work. In the cab you have the computer, switches, and brake switch. Under the hood are the hoses, pump, and actuator.
In terms of the rotary coupler, that’s what makes the radio and CC work on the steering wheel as it turns. If your radio controls don’t work either, that is the issue. Lots documented out there on all this stuff. There is a thread here if you search that will run you through some great procedures.
My point was that in order to send a signal to the pump under the hood, the switches have to work. In the cab you have the computer, switches, and brake switch. Under the hood are the hoses, pump, and actuator.
Last edited by longtallsally; 09-13-2018 at 10:49 PM.
#10
I have a new rotary coupler on my kitchen table right now. My CC buttons stopped working, then the others buttons, and finally I got an SRS warning for airbag Circuit. It failed piece by piece until I couldn't pass inspection; hence the new (to me) part.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 09-13-2018 at 11:07 PM.