Well I had not had any trouble with them until the last couple of weeks and they would blinked on 3 times in 2 weeks but be gone upon restart. This weekend I finally had time to get everything apart and put the lift on which went very smoothly. I had a squeak in the rear brakes so I had the pads ready and put them on while I was there. Day after the lift goes on I test everything out real well, no issues except the brakes squeal worse now than before. Next day three amigos appear as a hard fault, but I still have ABS and traction control but no HDC? I was under the impression that ABS and TC would be disabled, but maybe not? I tested all of the ABS sensors for resistance and all seem within spec. Jacked up both axles to check play in the hubs and there is none anywhere. I think I probably will pull the rotors and sand some of the glaze off which I probably should have done before, but the rotors look good. Probably should pull the rear sensors out and clean/check them? I had seen Disco Mike refer to some sound dampening material/spray of some sort, that might be worth a try? I am in the process of trying to figure out a way to pull the codes from SLABS, any other ideas in the meantime?

Also is there something about the Hawkeye that would make it better than a diagnostic tool like this:Autel

 

You always put sound deadening spray on brake pads.
Are the lights now on all the time, if so it will take a special scanner/computer to test and clear the codes.
Yes, if the lights are on you will not have ETC, ABS or Hill Decent.

 

I have ordered the scanner that I linked to in the OP, so hopefully it will do what it claims. Without it I have done all of the testing that I can do. Everything outside the modulator seems to test OK electrically. I have no HDC. I have done some fiddling with TC and ABS to see what functionality I have in both even with the three amigos present all of the time. The ABS seems to work well as it always has and I cannot find a difference in functionality between any of the wheels. The TC has also maintained some functionality, however I can tell that the FL and RR wheels do not brake anywhere near as well as the FR or RL wheels when engaging the BL diff system. Based on the fact that I had intermittent faults in the system that would clear on restart before the hard fault, I would be willing to bet that I have the SV electrical fault and it needs rewired. Perusing through the diagrams on rave I noticed that one shuttle valve controlls FL and RR and the other valve FR and RL. I have not disassembled the modulator/SV unit, but I am wondering if I also have a seal/valve issue that is limiting the functionality of one SV and that is what caused the hard fault?

 

I would do the rewire first (option B) before diving into the hydraulics, it's a pretty easy operation and it might be all that you need.

 

If that were the problem, he would still have the lights on cause he doesn't want to pay to get the codes read then corrected and cleared.

 

I want to take care of the problem, but I would rather own the diagnostic tool and do the work myself than pay a dealer $150 to read the codes and $115/hr to do the work. I understand this is all conjecture, but I was contemplating ordering the shuttle valve assembly now because chances are I will need it sometime anyway...........and I have a trip planned the middle of this month so it would be nice to have this ironed out before that instead of waiting on parts.

 

You can buy a 3 amigo scanner, fix the issues and resell it at a $30 to $0 expense to you which makes it nice.
As for ordering a shuttle valve, wait till you read the codes, if you still need one, also order the o-rings from Falcon works so your shuttle valves won't get wet again.

 

Well the Landrover dealer over 100 miles away said I needed an overlay harness. I bought a 3 amigos tester and that agree, Nice little device - most expensive plug I ever bought though!

Any how I got the rear overlay harness and Brakes Plus installed it for me for $200. 3 amigos cleared the lights and I thought great. Driving down the road I turned left and as I accelerated the traction control fired up. Then it went off. Then I went over a small bump into the supermarket carpark and it fired again. The 3 amigos tester shows all is clear.

Never had and never needed traction control in 45 years of driving so can I turn it off somehow? Or is it a simple problem to fix?

 

If you test the system, the 3 lights have to be on or you will not get any codes.

 

That is my point the TC fires up if I touch the accelerator on a left turn and the light flashes on. Also if I go over a bump in the road. Then it goes off - it could be dangerous if that happens on the highway at 70MPH. I have pulled the ABS fuse temporarily which means the lights are back on and it drives fine - I only fitted the overlay harness to get rid of the damn lights. Seems I have paid for an expensive length of cable and fitting for no benefit.

Could it be a faulty left front speed sensor? No fault codes yet at all.