So, I've been working on this issue for about 4 months now, and even with reading all the posts on here, I still don't have the issue fixed, so I figure it's time to start asking some of my own questions...

I have a 2001 Disco II, with 127000 miles on it. Back in August, while on a road trip, the engine started stumbling a bit, and check engine light came on. I took it in to the dealer, they read the P0302 code and wanted to charge me $800 for new plugs and wires. I said no, and that's when I found you guys. I put new plugs in it (Bosch) and things "seemed" to get better for about a month then the stumbling came back. Then, I put the magnecore wires in and that didn't seem to help at all. I was getting by with the stumbling (mainly just around 40mph, so I just pushed hard through that, and stuck to freeway driving). I've tried seafoam in the tank, and have switched to premium fuel for good, though before it was the cheap stuff all the way. The code has been coming and going (i've been checking it with a friends reader and it is still P0302), until yesterday... Yesterday, it came on flashing like it usually does, but instead of just staying "on" it started flashing again after another two minutes (and is still doing that), and the stumbling is pretty consistent now. And now, when I really get on it to get above 40mph, I hear the slightest ticking from the engine compartment.

As I said, it's been annoying, but still running so I have tried to work through this on my own. Is it time to take it in again? With everything I've tried, and now reading about the code in the Rave manual, I think it is a bad fuel injector. I haven't found much talk on here about replacing fuel injectors, so that is my question. How "easy" is it? I'm fairly handy, but need my ex-mechanic dad's garage and tools to do any of the work which is located in a town without parts for the Disco, so I need to have it all figured out before ripping it apart. It looks like I can get a fuel injector online for about $150, and I'm guessing the shop will charge me $200 for it, and then $400 plus to install it.

I appreciate any input I can get!

 

The fuel injectors on these things are pretty tough, they dont fail very often.
With you having been using the cheapest gas you could get I would not be surprised if your engine is all sludged up and you have a sticky valve or two or a sticky lifter.
Change your oil and put in diesel oil, drive it for 500 miles and then change it again.
Using the wrong gas will cause tons of problems and cost you some serious $$$.

This is all assuming that you have checked your plug wires and the coils making sure that everything is good.

Try revving the engine while in park and see if it acts up at the same rpm as at 40mph.

 

I'd rather not get into changing injectors, so I'll explore whatever options you think I have.

1) If I'm having bad fuel issues, why will changing out the oil help? I was planning on doing an induction cleaning this weekend, would that help more? Are you thinking the ticking sound is a stuck lifter/valve? The stumble has turned into a constant miss, so if something was sticky, I think it's stuck now. Do you think a stuck lifter/valve would give the misfire code?

2) I have checked the wires, and they seem to still be snug, but how do i "check" the coil. I did see someone mentioning the voltage between the towers, but I'm not quite following.

3) So... I tried revving it up to about 2500 rpms while in park, and I didn't notice any of the stumbling. What does that point to?

 

Sounds like a problem I had. It was a sticky valve. I believe the previous owner had used regular gas. The carbon will work it's way up the exhaust valve stem and eventually cause the valve to stick or bind in the valve guide. This is well known on D1s, but I didn't think so much on the D2s. Here is an article -

http://www.robisonservice.com/servic...n_fouling1.pdf

This may not be your problem, but it was mine - once. My symptoms were missing at highway speeed, with a hard miss, almost like driving over railroad ties and always at the same speed, maybe 50 - 55 mph and the missfire code. I had one valve sticking and when the heads were off you could tell that valve was getting close to burning by the color of the top of it.

 

In order, 1st do plugs and wires, then an induction cleaning. If that doesn't work then verify the coil is good, check the bad plug for black soot or moisture, if wet is it gas oil coolant, then do both a compression test and if need be a leak down test.
Having done these items, you will know what exactly is wrong.

 

I'll make sure to give thanks to the Land Rover gods this weekend, and let you all know how it goes. Thanks for the info!

 

UPDATE - I didn't get too far through my trouble-shooting checklist before I found that Cylinder 2 wasn't getting any spark from the coil. Tried #2's ignition cable on a different tower of the coil pack and it was good, so I'm pretty sure it's the coil pack (fingers crossed).

Got a coil pack on order, and plan to switch it out this weekend. Anyone switched these coil packs out with removing the intake manifold? It's tight, but I think with some short tools and my small "carney-like" hands, I can do it without removing the intake manifold (I did swap out the ignition cables without removing the intake and it didn't seem so bad). Anyone care to convince me otherwise?

 

Maybe you can, but would need to be a Ninja with tiny hands and socket that flexes while at the same time holds the socket so it cannot fall out in order reach all 4 bolts that hold the ignition coils to the engine. I think I would remove the upper IM it is a pretty easy thing to do just takes a little time.