Hey everyone,

So I'm hoping that someone will be able to help me out with a problem I'm having. I have a 2004 Discovery II SE7 with 116,000 miles. I have a check engine light saying misfire cylinder 4. First thing in the morning, the Discovery will start with ease, but will idle a little rough and the check engine light will flash until it warms up. I won't do that again until the next morning, or I let it sit for over 8 hours. I initially changed out the spark plugs and wires and reset the computer. I'd start the SUV and it wouldn't shake or anything, but after starting and driving the Discovery a few times, the light would come on again. So, I went ahead and pulled both ignition coils and replaced. However, same as described before. Not really sure which way to go now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

When it gets really really warm - is there a tap that starts - say after driving 5 to 10 miles?

 

Are you having to add any coolant, sounds like a possible coolant leak down over night into the cylinder which when started will run rough untill the coolant is burned off.

 

Thanks for the quick responses.

jfall- no, I have not noticed a tapping at all from the engine.

Disco Mike- I have had to top up the coolant, but I really didn't think it was that much. Thought it was just regular burn off. If it is a coolant leak down into the cylinder, how would I confirm it?

Thanks again.

 

Every head gasket failure is different.
If you have air in your system - are you getting the heater core waterfall noise?

Can you remove the filler cap for the expansion tank when the engine is cooled off for an hour and does it still bubble up air and then the level lowers?

If so - head gasket.

Our Discovery I is essentially the same block.
every week or other - I would need to put a large beer glass of antifreeze into the engine.


It was leaking into a cylinder.
Never made a miss.

And out the back of the rover.
Ruined a CAT that way.

read all about it.

1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets

 

Pressure test the coolant system to 18 pound for 15 to 30 minutes, if it drops and you don't see a leak then it is a head gasket.
By the way, there is no such thing as regular coolant burn off in a completly sealed system.

 

jfall- Yes, I have sometimes heard a "waterfall" type sound when I turn the Discovery off, however, I'm not sure if it happens every time.
Also, yes I can remove the filler cap for the expansion tank when the engine is cooled off and it does bubble up air and coolant and then the level lowers.
I will defiantly look over that hyperlink you posted on your 97, thank you.

Disco Mike- I will pressure test the coolant system this upcoming week. Thanks for setting me straight about "regular coolant burn off".

Thanks guys for your responses. If you and anyone else reading this post have anything to add, I'm all ears, thanks.

 

In the mean time, I wouldn't drive it much, you may be doing even more harm hence a higher repair bill.

 

I am having the same EXACT issue. Most Rover mechanics I know all tell me it is a "slipped sleeve" or a crack in the block behind the liner.

Since I have had the problem, I have run several tests. The first is to see if you have coolant in the cylinder. What I did was run the engine to operating temperature, remove the plug in cylinder 4 and made sure the piston was not at TDC. The next morning I would check for coolant in the cylinder with a "string". Not conclusive, but helps diagnose. I then did a exhaust gas test in the coolant. You can get these test kits for $25 at Autozone. It has a blue liquid that changes to yellow or green if exhaust gasses are present in the cooling system. I checked this for several reasons: 1) I was unable to bleed the cooling system 2) I had the "waterfall" sound when cornering 3) the coolant hoses would get rock hard after a few minutes of engine running. Miune was positive for exhaust in the coolant. You can also check by removing the coolant cap in the morning after the engine has cooled down. A little bit of pressure release is normal, but I was getting a lot when I took the cap off.

Since I knew I had either a head gasket issue or block issue, I stripped the top half of the engine. I saw no issues with the gasket (only replaced 20k miles ago). I then did a block pressure test. The kit is availbale for purchase or rental from Motorcars LTD. $250 to buy it, $199 to rent WITHOUT a purchase, $99 to rent with a purchase. I installed the kit and pressurized the block to 40psi and sprayed soapy water all over the block and liners. No bubbles at all (at least where I could see). Took the heads to a machinest and he verified that the valves were fine and there were no issues with the head. Didn't even need decking.

So here I am with a half torn apart engine and I STILL don't know what the issue is. I will be putting it all back together this weekend with new gaskets, etc. If I still have the issue, I can only assume the block is the culprit and a bottle of K-Seal will be going in. The only other option to a cracked block or "slipped liner" is an engine replacement OR a top hat install. I found a guy in California that will install top hats in your engine for $1500, but you have to ship him your stripped block. Might be an option for me as I believe that the only true fix for this issue is top hat liners. You can buy a used short block, but if the liners aren't top-hatted, there is the potential for another leak. Plus, the top hat option is cheaper.

The issue with cylider 4 is that it is not located next to a water jacket. But as Jfall said, headgasket leaks show up in mysterious ways. I am crossing my fingers that mine will be fixed with new gaskets.

 

Guys,
Just replace the head gaskets.
Get to it.
No sense putting it off.

The best deal is - dealing with it.

I did not want to do it either.
But, I finally got into it.

Not real fun.
But, you will save $1,700 to $3000 doing it yourself.

Otherwise, you are in a time bomb with 4 wheels.
Hope you have AAA insurance for towing.