Running up and down from 201-212 occasionally 215 but only for a second then back down... 180deg motorad , new radiator temps show cooler on outsides left and right center top around 170-180 and bottom 150-160 range... upper radiator hoses temps at USA driver side entrance into radiator around 186 and also right side of bleed screw into engine around 185-188 but on the passenger side of bleed valve about 20deg less... turning on heater gets nice n hot normally around 140+ deg air inside vent in south florida inside cabin! ... nice! AHAHAHA at temperature sensor area and pipe to heater core around 200 to 205... maybe my temp sensor is bad? all temps to my knowledge with the IR hand held I have seem in range... but I see my ultra gauge showing higher than Id expect for 180 thermostat... I just replaced it with another motorad that I suspected was going bad... and I ordered this one... its white but they said the new one was 180F and I took their word for it of course... maybe I have a 190 in it? I've seen no drops when changing.. also I have new radiator, water pump, hoses ( except lower that connects to the thermostat and water pump... belt is good... expansion tank good... advise?

also adding that on highway it also reads high.. can the temperate sensor show high when in fact all is ok? there is some calcium buildup around the screw into intake where sensor mounts ( turquoise is color ) ... no gurgling no drip outs from expansion tank for bubbling ... all seems ok... hmmm

 

Most people have bad luck with the Motorad and recommend OEM. I, admittedly, still have an OEM 190 stat because I replaced it before I knew what the hell I was doing. I need to swap mine, but I'll probably do the re-route and use an in line SBC 180 stat. I don't remember the thread, but I think Dusty has one.

 

weird that you are getting higher ir read at sensor....seems this would lend credence to the ug #s, no?
did you flush the heater core when you were updating your system?

 

I didn't do a FULL flush but I did it a couple years ago when I changed from dexcool.... and all was kind of ok but radiator was bad ( cracked nipple ( original ) so replaced it and upper radiator hose and new thermostat and all was good... recently I did replace spark plugs and wires and fan clutch too... I found a leak in the expansion tank also and weep at water pump so replaced that... where I live I have a BUNCH OF BITCHY residents watching even a spec of coolant on the ground so I skipped doing a huge flush and have police standing at my door ... but heater gets REALLY HOT! so IM suspecting thats working lol 140+ deg coming out of vents... is that normal?

 

oh and when I did that ( turn heater on Max) my temps went down on UG lol

 

That part is completely normal.

 

haha yup... Im suspecting the 180F Motorad thermostat is a fail... I've bled system enough times to know how to do it and only these last 2 motorad thermostats have given me no good results... i saved the old one so Im going to check it out and see if it opens when its supposed too but I doubt it will ... everything seems to be working properly and when I turned on heater the temps went down so that should isolate the engine block and water pump working... so that leaves a thermostat or radiator both of which are new... btw it looks like someone has stolen my new hayden clutch and D1 fan... not sure how unless I left it outside accidentally but I don't think I did... looking into that now... I had my old fan but when I installed the hayden then put this one back in the results were the same.. and even at speed on highway its running warm... nothing boiling over fortunately and with that said.. here in south florida, I may as well do the thermostat Mod with the replaceable 180deg thermostat ... now where do I find that post! lol

 

Your water pump inlet hose or radiator outlet hose may be collapsing on suction. I would insert 'spring' stiffeners in them. Very cheap insurance.

Land Rover engineers forgot such.

 

I've saw that someplace and even tried to google... not sure which one that is... all are new except one to underside of expansion tank and one that comes out of bottom of water pump

 

That one on bottom of water pump is prone to collapse when old as works in suction mode.

Edited, added: ----> http://treperformance.com/images/F15670.jpg