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D2 4.6 removal?

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  #1  
Old 12-25-2017 | 04:05 PM
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Default D2 4.6 removal?

I will be removing the engine in my 04 as soon as I find the time. I know what I'm doing, lol, but this is my first Land Rover.
I will be replacing all bearings, gaskets, timing cover, cam, flexplate, ect, ect...this thing is Not gonna tick when I'm done(already did pushrods, lifters, rocker shafts, timing chain, oil pump, and still ticks, so back apart it comes!)
My questions are; I already have the lower intake off, is it any easier getting to transmission bolts if I remove the heads in the truck?
When I put the engine back in, is it ok to have the coil packs on(and SAI tube against firewall), and install it complete? Or am I causing more work for myself? Is it easier to build in the truck?
I'll be removing the transfer case as well, leaks, I'm replacing all seals.
Are the front and rear trans seals easily accessable at this point?
Is there anything in particular that I should or should not do with everything out, or in the process?
Yes, I'm reading, and I have the manual downloaded.
I'm just asking for any advice from you guys that have taken these engines in and out before. As it looks really straight forward. Which is a corcern. I'm wondering what's about to bite me in the ***. It's a car, more so, it's a Land Rover. Did I mention that I already replaced a bunch of parts all over this thig, lol.
Thanks for any help.
 
  #2  
Old 12-25-2017 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixpack577
I will be removing the engine in my 04 as soon as I find the time. I know what I'm doing, lol, but this is my first Land Rover.
I will be replacing all bearings, gaskets, timing cover, cam, flexplate, ect, ect...this thing is Not gonna tick when I'm done(already did pushrods, lifters, rocker shafts, timing chain, oil pump, and still ticks, so back apart it comes!)
My questions are; I already have the lower intake off, is it any easier getting to transmission bolts if I remove the heads in the truck?
When I put the engine back in, is it ok to have the coil packs on(and SAI tube against firewall), and install it complete? Or am I causing more work for myself? Is it easier to build in the truck?
I'll be removing the transfer case as well, leaks, I'm replacing all seals.
Are the front and rear trans seals easily accessable at this point?
Is there anything in particular that I should or should not do with everything out, or in the process?
Yes, I'm reading, and I have the manual downloaded.
I'm just asking for any advice from you guys that have taken these engines in and out before. As it looks really straight forward. Which is a corcern. I'm wondering what's about to bite me in the ***. It's a car, more so, it's a Land Rover. Did I mention that I already replaced a bunch of parts all over this thig, lol.
Thanks for any help.
Yes, the transmission bolts are easier without the heads. But they're still a bitch. Also , it is easier to tilt the engine up if you're leaving the motor mounts on. However, unless I'm misremebering, the chain hooks are on the heads. I may be misremebering.

With the coil packs on you won't be able to reach the upper transmission bolts on the reinstall. I wire them up and leave them sitting on top, with the upper intake off, on reinstall.

I haven't had issues with my transfer case or transmission, so someone else will have to chime in.
 
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  #3  
Old 12-25-2017 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
Yes, the transmission bolts are easier without the heads. But they're still a bitch. Also , it is easier to tilt the engine up if you're leaving the motor mounts on. However, unless I'm misremebering, the chain hooks are on the heads. I may be misremebering.

With the coil packs on you won't be able to reach the upper transmission bolts on the reinstall. I wire them up and leave them sitting on top, with the upper intake off, on reinstall.

I haven't had issues with my transfer case or transmission, so someone else will have to chime in.

Thank you sir.
Does it make a difference leaving the motor mounts in the truck, or on the block?
I guess I'll pull the heads next then.
 
  #4  
Old 12-25-2017 | 05:00 PM
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Does anyone know where to buy a flexplate?
I recall seeing them somewhere several months ago for $80-90, and I don't see them on Lucky8's site.
 
  #5  
Old 12-25-2017 | 05:21 PM
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Call them after the holidays they should be able to square you up.
 
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  #6  
Old 12-25-2017 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ArmyRover
Call them after the holidays they should be able to square you up.
Oh I am, I've got a list for them already
 
  #7  
Old 12-25-2017 | 06:16 PM
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When you call L8 remember to grab some bolts too (#FS110141MG )
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  #8  
Old 12-25-2017 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by OverRover
When you call L8 remember to grab some bolts too (#FS110141MG )
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Thank you sir!

Which bolts are you reffering to?
 
  #9  
Old 12-25-2017 | 06:41 PM
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At least replace (4) of these #6 (#8 top pic)
If yo decide to replace #8 in pic2 the part number is SS607120 (#13 top pic)
 

Last edited by OverRover; 12-25-2017 at 06:44 PM.
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  #10  
Old 12-25-2017 | 07:11 PM
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I'd recommend doing the upgraded heavy duty flexplate from Ashcroft if you're going that far. It's not that much more. You'll have to pay overseas freight, but worth it in my opinion.

Also if you're going that deep, do a dingleball hone on the cylinders and replace the rings. That will leave you with a completely fresh engine with nothing to worry about for some time.
 
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