It is MUCH easier to remove the engine with a crane holding it and the mounts removed, but I'm sure it is a dangerous thing to do (I've done it several times with no ill effects; but if the crane or chain failed the engine could fall a very long way with you underneath, so if you do that, put a jack under the transmission and oil pan for safety... you need one under the transmission anyway because it would drop when the last bolt comes off from the engine), so proceed at your own risk. That also allows you to lower the engine and get to those transmission bolts easier. The upper half of the transmission bolts are the worst part of the job by far, followed closely by the flex plate bolts (easy to remove, but harder to replace with the oil pan on--if possible replace them with the pan off and it will be much easier), unless your exhaust studs break, then they are the worst! There are a few near worsts, now that I am reliving it.

My rover is at the farm today but just based on memory if I was removing the engine today I would leave the heads on but remove the fan, belt, coils, air intake hose, exhaust manifolds, upper intake, fuel rail, miscellaneous hoses and connectors, radiator hoses and oil cooler lines, and remove motor mounts completely. I also prefer to remove the front assemblies and pulleys, drop the power steering pump and leave it there. I can't remember if the front chain loop is on the driver side head or the driver side front assembly, but if on the assembly, you will need to replace it with a few bolts after taking off the steering pump. Then pull the motor. Be sure to put some cardboard over the back of your radiator to prevent dents and worse.

I don't have SAI so I'm not sure about that.

If you are going to completely disassemble the engine then I'd take off as much as possible on the truck because it is easier than on an engine stand if you don't have help.

 

Yeah, was planning on rings and hone too.
Engine has 122k and ran great, didn't heat, looks good inside, just ticked bad.

What is the benefit of the Ashcroft flexplate on an otherwise stock engine (I may get a bigger cam too)?
Do you have a link for it?
Time waiting on parts is no biggie either.
Will take me a few months to do everything I need to, just gonna start ordering tomorrow.
Thanks

 

I have the lower intake off, and ps pump, alternator, ac out of the way.
I was going to leave the exhaust manifolds on, I would think they would be easier to get off on the stand, no?
Radiator is still in, and covered with cardboard, I was going to remove it, figured I'de need the room.
I just have to remove SAI tubes from heads, unbolt starter and motor mounts...and transmission.
Then I can pull the engine.

I also need the plastic elbow in the end of the fuel line, that connects to fuel rail, it snapped like a twig.
Hopefully Lucky8 has that too.

Thanks for your help too, it's greatly appreciated.

One day...my D2 is going to run...and not tick...and not leak...one day.

 

Thank you sir!
Little things like this is exactly what I need to know!

 

You can either remove the manifolds or disconnect at the flange below them. But if you leave the manifolds it is harder to get to the upper motor mount bolts, and pushing the exhaust up (when both sides are disconnected at the flange) requires some acrobatics, straps, or extra hands to get the flanges connected again. But either will work.

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No worries. IDK if you have the torque specs for those bolts, but here you go.
I seem to catch HELL for recommending using a torque wrench, but IMHO it's simple, if a fastener has a Tspec I use the wrench.

 

Thank you sir.
I agree, I use a Snap-on torque wrench on everything.
Just had it calibrated too.
Had to borrow a friend's to get the 200' lbs on the crank pulley recently.

 

If you ever need to buy a 200+ lbs torque wrench, and you don't want to spend a ton of money try a TEKTON 24340. I'm NOT one to use cheap tools and have many torque wrenches (no joke, just name a brand). This Tekton was given to me and before I used it I had it calibrated. It was right on.

I'm not comparing it to a Snap-on, but I would not hesitate to recommend it or use. I let it get knocked around this summer by a few people and had it calibrated again. It was out by 1.8%, and that was shocking for knowing how it was used (I really expected to be getting back a breakerbar and not a torque wrench). If I didn't buy it, I would now. Just my 2 cents.
> https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-driv...e-wrench-24340

 

The flexplate is thicker and much more resilient than the stock plate which is prone to donut-ing itself. Don't have a link on hand, but I'll see if I can find one.

Definitely do a bigger cam. I've got the Kent H180 and love it. Several people do the Crower came with equally good results.

Also, if time isn't a huge deal, definitely do a port and polish on the heads. It makes quite the difference.

 

http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/p38-v8-heavy-duty-flexplate.html

There's the flexplate link.