D2 4.6 removal?
#21
12-25-2017, 11:43 PM
The flexplate is thicker and much more resilient than the stock plate which is prone to donut-ing itself. Don't have a link on hand, but I'll see if I can find one.
Definitely do a bigger cam. I've got the Kent H180 and love it. Several people do the Crower came with equally good results.
Also, if time isn't a huge deal, definitely do a port and polish on the heads. It makes quite the difference.
Definitely do a bigger cam. I've got the Kent H180 and love it. Several people do the Crower came with equally good results.
Also, if time isn't a huge deal, definitely do a port and polish on the heads. It makes quite the difference.
I read a Crower gives 22-26 hp, and as much torque.
Seems like alot, especially for a non performance engine. But, maybe there's just alot left on the table.
Crower I saw was $285
vs $80 for new stock at Lucky8
I'm all for performance, but it's going to have to be really noticeable, or give another mpg fo me to spend that now.
Trying to fix alot of things asap, and $200 buys alot.
As for port and polish, I'de love to, but don't have the time.
#22
12-25-2017, 11:45 PM
#23
12-25-2017, 11:50 PM
If you ever need to buy a 200+ lbs torque wrench, and you don't want to spend a ton of money try a TEKTON 24340. I'm NOT one to use cheap tools and have may torque wrenches (no joke, just name a brand). This Tekton was given to me and before I used it I had it calibrated. It was right on.
I'm not comparing it to a Snap-on, but I would not hesitate to recommend it or use. I let it get knocked around this summer by a few people and had it calibrated again. It was out by 1.8%, and that was shocking for knowing how it was used (I really expected to be getting back a breakerbar and not a torque wrench). If I didn't buy it, I would now. Just my 2 cents.
> https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-driv...e-wrench-24340
I'm not comparing it to a Snap-on, but I would not hesitate to recommend it or use. I let it get knocked around this summer by a few people and had it calibrated again. It was out by 1.8%, and that was shocking for knowing how it was used (I really expected to be getting back a breakerbar and not a torque wrench). If I didn't buy it, I would now. Just my 2 cents.
> https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-driv...e-wrench-24340
I want one, so I don't have to borrow one.
I just use 150' lb+ so little, that I didn't want to spend the money. But $59, and it's quality.
I think I'll try one, thanks for the link!
#24
12-26-2017, 03:51 AM
Baja
Charlie, although access is easier to the bell housing bolts with the cylinder heads removed you may wish to consider having the engine on a dyno prior to installation for a couple of reasons, one being to check everything is ok being the primary reason. Don't forget to use assembly lube (it's better than ordinary oil) when re-assembling all the bearings, pistons, camshaft etc.
The other opportunity is to fit a new flex plate but use an HD type as the original is prone to failure after many years of service.
Ashcroft Transmissions
The other opportunity is to fit a new flex plate but use an HD type as the original is prone to failure after many years of service.
Ashcroft Transmissions
#25
12-28-2017, 04:59 PM
What do you think of the cam?
I read a Crower gives 22-26 hp, and as much torque.
Seems like alot, especially for a non performance engine. But, maybe there's just alot left on the table.
Crower I saw was $285
vs $80 for new stock at Lucky8
I'm all for performance, but it's going to have to be really noticeable, or give another mpg fo me to spend that now.
Trying to fix alot of things asap, and $200 buys alot.
As for port and polish, I'de love to, but don't have the time.
I read a Crower gives 22-26 hp, and as much torque.
Seems like alot, especially for a non performance engine. But, maybe there's just alot left on the table.
Crower I saw was $285
vs $80 for new stock at Lucky8
I'm all for performance, but it's going to have to be really noticeable, or give another mpg fo me to spend that now.
Trying to fix alot of things asap, and $200 buys alot.
As for port and polish, I'de love to, but don't have the time.
Any info on real world performance?
#26
12-28-2017, 05:22 PM
I plan on ordering parts tomorrow, and I'm undecided whether or not a Crower cam is worth the cost of 3 stock ones.
Any advice is appreciated.
Also, when I remove the torque converter, can I replace the front seal then? Or, does the transmission need disassembled?
Had planned on a front and rear trans seal.
Thanks
Any advice is appreciated.
Also, when I remove the torque converter, can I replace the front seal then? Or, does the transmission need disassembled?
Had planned on a front and rear trans seal.
Thanks
#27
12-28-2017, 06:39 PM
Camel Trophy
I plan on ordering parts tomorrow, and I'm undecided whether or not a Crower cam is worth the cost of 3 stock ones.
Any advice is appreciated.
Also, when I remove the torque converter, can I replace the front seal then? Or, does the transmission need disassembled?
Had planned on a front and rear trans seal.
Thanks
Any advice is appreciated.
Also, when I remove the torque converter, can I replace the front seal then? Or, does the transmission need disassembled?
Had planned on a front and rear trans seal.
Thanks
You have to remove the transfer case to replace rear trans seal.
Brian.
The following users liked this post:
Sixpack577 (12-28-2017)
#28
12-28-2017, 06:45 PM
Camel Trophy
I've heard lots of good things about the Crower cams. I've got a Kent H180 cam and I love it. I can't say definitively how much difference it made because I did a port and polish at the same time, but I can say that the two together were quite significant.
Even without the port job I'd still say yes on the cam.
Even without the port job I'd still say yes on the cam.
The following users liked this post:
Sixpack577 (12-28-2017)
#29
12-28-2017, 06:48 PM
Yes, you can replace the front seal once the torque converter is out. Just pay attention to how close the converter is to the bell housing, normally, you can barely get your fingers in between the two. So, after you change the seal...make sure you get the converter all the way back on. It will slid onto probably two or three sets of splines that drive different components. If you don't get it slid on all the way...you will ruin the trans bolting it to the engine.
You have to remove the transfer case to replace rear trans seal.
Brian.
You have to remove the transfer case to replace rear trans seal.
Brian.
And yeah, I'm removing the transfer case anyway. It's leaking, and I have a seal kit for it.
My to-do list on this thing is long.
#30
12-28-2017, 06:49 PM