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D2 4.6 removal?

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  #41  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
Ok, that makes sense. Curious it's cheaper. Where are you getting your reman heads from? Core charge?
Since they were posted here, and he has a great reputation, I think it's ok to say that they will be coming from Abran.
 
  #42  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by The Deputy
You mention not being able to get rid of "tick".

When you pulled the heads, did you notice any steam cleaning of the piston tops? Mine had three cylinders that were steam cleaned, equaling...slipped liners. Just curious.

Brian.
I've yet to pull the heads.
Just back to having the lower intake off.
I already replaced oil pump, lifters, pushrods, rocker shafts and some other things, and oil pump was cracked.
But the tick was still there.
Engine was very clean inside, and ran excellent.
No overheating, no oil in anti-freeze, or vice versa.
Passed Co2 coolant test too.
In frustration, and having already put alot of money in it, I am too far in to stop.
I am assuming it IS a slipped liner.
So, engine will come out. I'll pin all 8.
Measure crank, and hope I'll be ok with standard bearings, rod and mains, and not need machining.
New Crower cam and finished bearings.
Hone cylinders and new standard rings.
Front cover, and refurbished heads.
New flex plate.
Several other bits and pieces.
I'm confident that will stop the tick.
I'll post pics of what I find as I take it apart.
 
  #43  
Old 01-01-2018, 11:01 PM
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OP,
Almost identical story here with work already done trying to eliminate tick. Did most of it two years ago and also installed the Crower cam. New cooling sys, in-line t-stat, new front cover, timing gear, chain, cam, lifters, pushrods, rockers and shafts, main and rod bearings. Runs strong and smooth, good oil pressure. The tick stayed away for a long while - but it’s back. 225K. I was initially planning to pin, but I’m going to re-sleeve and install new cam bearings. I also picked up a set of refurbished heads.
Will start pulling motor and ordering parts next week. I’ll be following this post closely. Thx and Happy NY!
 
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  #44  
Old 01-02-2018, 03:26 AM
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Good luck Sixpack.

TIP: Print off RAVE pages and makes notes alongside each part you want to attack in sequence.

Print off from RAVE all the torque wrench settings you are likely to need.

Take your time and allow time for thinking about the project.

Only purchase parts as you need them or long lead time parts but don't buy everything at once as the parts get updated regularly or offers appear.

Make a list of all the telephone numbers you'll need during the rebuild like Ashcroft, Turner, Kent etc.


Buy a copy of a D2 V8 Haynes Manual, no, not to read, just to prop the garage door open when things get too hot

Have fun as it's very satisfying when that rebuilt motor kicks into life.
 

Last edited by OffroadFrance; 01-02-2018 at 03:31 AM.
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  #45  
Old 01-02-2018, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by OffroadFrance
Good luck Sixpack.

TIP: Print off RAVE pages and makes notes alongside each part you want to attack in sequence.

Print off from RAVE all the torque wrench settings you are likely to need.

Take your time and allow time for thinking about the project.

Only purchase parts as you need them or long lead time parts but don't buy everything at once as the parts get updated regularly or offers appear.

Make a list of all the telephone numbers you'll need during the rebuild like Ashcroft, Turner, Kent etc.


Buy a copy of a D2 V8 Haynes Manual, no, not to read, just to prop the garage door open when things get too hot

Have fun as it's very satisfying when that rebuilt motor kicks into life.

"To prop the garage door open when things get too hot"
lmao, not a chance!
The Disco is sitting outside my garage now...and it's 2.9 degrees F.
And it'll keep sitting there until it hits the 40s, and my fingers work to finish pulling the engine.

Thank you all for the advice.
 
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