D2 Brake Recommendation
#22
#23
Hello Guys -
Thank you all for the feedback, I ended up with Akebono pads and Weavever rotors from AAP. I opted to go that route because of time, I couldn't wait for shipping. I hope I made the right decision! The good news AAP offered me 20 percent discount and the rotors come with two years warranty!
The bad news (there is always bad news with these trucks right), the shop that replaced my tires about a year ago torqued the lugs nuts so bad I couldn't get them undone. I am hoping to take it to a local shop and hopefully they can help me loose these baby up.
Thanks again,
Gibran
Thank you all for the feedback, I ended up with Akebono pads and Weavever rotors from AAP. I opted to go that route because of time, I couldn't wait for shipping. I hope I made the right decision! The good news AAP offered me 20 percent discount and the rotors come with two years warranty!
The bad news (there is always bad news with these trucks right), the shop that replaced my tires about a year ago torqued the lugs nuts so bad I couldn't get them undone. I am hoping to take it to a local shop and hopefully they can help me loose these baby up.
Thanks again,
Gibran
#24
I am always shocked by what garages and tire shops do when it comes to installing wheels. USE A TORQUE WRENCH! Uneven lug nut torque is probably responsible for more brake rotor replacements than miles driven. Good thing you didn't need to get that wheel off on the side of the road somewhere or on a trail.
I always check the lugs after the vehicle has been to a tire shop or had an inspection and I have yet to find the lugs at the correct torque. Drives me nuts!
By the way, back on the original topic I have had the EBC dimpled and slotted rotors and Akebono pads on the front of the truck for a few weeks now and they work awesome. Very noticeable improvement in braking, which I would attribute to the pads. The previous owner's use of DBA drilled and slotted rotors with OEM pads was almost unstoppable which is a bad thing if you are brakes.
I always check the lugs after the vehicle has been to a tire shop or had an inspection and I have yet to find the lugs at the correct torque. Drives me nuts!
By the way, back on the original topic I have had the EBC dimpled and slotted rotors and Akebono pads on the front of the truck for a few weeks now and they work awesome. Very noticeable improvement in braking, which I would attribute to the pads. The previous owner's use of DBA drilled and slotted rotors with OEM pads was almost unstoppable which is a bad thing if you are brakes.
Last edited by 04duxlr; 07-09-2013 at 04:17 PM.
#25
I am always shocked by what garages and tire shops do when it comes to installing wheels. USE A TORQUE WRENCH! Uneven lug nut torque is probably responsible for more brake rotor replacements than miles driven. Good thing you didn't need to get that wheel off on the side of the road somewhere or on a trail.
I always check the lugs after the vehicle has been to a tire shop or had an inspection and I have yet to find the lugs at the correct torque. Drives me nuts!
I always check the lugs after the vehicle has been to a tire shop or had an inspection and I have yet to find the lugs at the correct torque. Drives me nuts!
I am hoping a tire shop can reveres this mess, we'll see
Thanks.
#28
Pads on sale at Adv Auto parts 90.00
Front Rotors 168.00 Truck Customizers
Rear Rotors 147.00 Parts Geek.com
#29
Happy Friday All!
Here's an update on my brake project:
Material purchased: Akebono brake pads and Wearever rotors (AAP Brand I guess). I settled for these rotors because I needed them quick, wish I knew I was going to hit a wall I would have ordered them online
- Took the truck to three tire shops and Precision Tune, guess who helped me loosen the tire lugs, and for free? Yep, you guessed it, Precision Tune, I just had to run home and get the right socket because they did not have 27mm in the shop.
- Battled my way with the rotors set screw, short battle, I kicked their **** with big screw driver and a hammer Shocked the heck out of them without impact driver (I learned this tip on youtube).
- After removing the calipers I noticed the darn dust cover for the guiding pins are bad, that explains the stuck pins on the driver side (I can't catch a break).
- My wife and kids still love
- Today I ordered the kit from AAP ( $9/Wearever Disc Brake Hardware Kit 13560 ), you can get them online for much less but don't have the luxury of time.
- Finally, and I hope you guys can help me here - I forgot to order the rotors set screw, so can I use anything as long as it's the same size (M8 X20MM) like the one in the picture?
Hopefully no more surprises with the brakes, I am squeezing in a Rad replacement as well.
Thanks guys.
Here's an update on my brake project:
Material purchased: Akebono brake pads and Wearever rotors (AAP Brand I guess). I settled for these rotors because I needed them quick, wish I knew I was going to hit a wall I would have ordered them online
- Took the truck to three tire shops and Precision Tune, guess who helped me loosen the tire lugs, and for free? Yep, you guessed it, Precision Tune, I just had to run home and get the right socket because they did not have 27mm in the shop.
- Battled my way with the rotors set screw, short battle, I kicked their **** with big screw driver and a hammer Shocked the heck out of them without impact driver (I learned this tip on youtube).
- After removing the calipers I noticed the darn dust cover for the guiding pins are bad, that explains the stuck pins on the driver side (I can't catch a break).
- My wife and kids still love
- Today I ordered the kit from AAP ( $9/Wearever Disc Brake Hardware Kit 13560 ), you can get them online for much less but don't have the luxury of time.
- Finally, and I hope you guys can help me here - I forgot to order the rotors set screw, so can I use anything as long as it's the same size (M8 X20MM) like the one in the picture?
Hopefully no more surprises with the brakes, I am squeezing in a Rad replacement as well.
Thanks guys.
#30
I don't think there is anything special about what set screw you use as long as it sits flush to the rotor. It's main purpose is to keep the rotor in place when you remove the tires, but I have replaced rotors without using a set screw just because I didn't want to wait to get a new one I stripped getting out and the caliper holds it in place good enough for me. Just have to make sure you torque your wheel back on in the star pattern.
I just ordered the +2 ss brake lines and proline front and rear rotor and pad kit from RN for my 99. Should be in next week and I'll be able to give a review for them by the end of next week hopefully. I know I went cheap going proline rotors and pads, but the PO tore one of the abs sensor lines and then pulled all the lights on the amigos as his "fix". Needless to say I'm not concerned with brake dust on it now and since it's just my weekend backroader no need to get all fancy.
I just ordered the +2 ss brake lines and proline front and rear rotor and pad kit from RN for my 99. Should be in next week and I'll be able to give a review for them by the end of next week hopefully. I know I went cheap going proline rotors and pads, but the PO tore one of the abs sensor lines and then pulled all the lights on the amigos as his "fix". Needless to say I'm not concerned with brake dust on it now and since it's just my weekend backroader no need to get all fancy.