I've seen a couple of posts mentioning the u-joint set up in the D2 front prop shaft (no grease fittings). The manual says they are "lubricated for life" -- yeah, until they die I guess. I think Disco Mike mentioned a couple of times that if they fail, they can take out the tranny so they should be replaced with u-joints that have grease fittings and kept greased.

Couple/few questions:

How long can I expect the originals to last before I need to start worring about failure? My 2003 D2 has about 51k miles on it.

I've noticed that the Precision 344 seems to be the preferred replacement joint (has grease fitting and it's less than 20 bucks a pop) -- anyone know if they will fit?

If I do replace the originalswith u-joints with grease fittings, will I be able to grease them? I don't see a lot of room in that "hookes joint" to get to a grease fittingatthe spider. Will I have to drop the prop shaft every time I need to grease it?

Thanks in advance for the help,

-Keith

 

Yes they are guaranteed for a very short life.
I had to replace my first set at 36,000 miles.
344's are a great way to go.
Yes they are easy to grease. Also put a grease fitting on each of you drive shafts slip joints, where the small plug is located, and fill them up with grease, they need it to keep from binding up.
Mike

 

Thanks Mike. I'll order a set of the 344's -- I guess I'll get three of 'em and do the whole front prop shaft as long as I'm in there (you saved me well overa hundred right there and maybe a transmission!).

Now I just have to wait for the weather to warm up a bit. Fantastic.

One last question (always one more) -- I have the 1/4" grease fitting to fit to the slip joints, but I haven't looked closely at the grub screw plug that'sin there now. Do you happen to know if it's a square or hex wrench needed to get it out (will I need a special tool or will a standard hex wrench do?). I only ask because the place where I work on the truck is not where I live so I have to bring everything I need with me for each time I work on it (and if I don't finish what I'm doingat the end of each time working on it, it's a long walk home!)

Thanks again,

-Keith

 

I can't remember the size, ˆdo remember that I just removed the plug with a small 1/4" wratchet set, you shouldn't have any problem.
Mike

 

3 mm Allen wrench I believe will remove the plg.

 

I had mine done today. I used the NEAPCO's # 1-0005 from Autozone, with the needle stlye fitting on the end instead of in the crook of the joint. I also had them replace the blanking plug with the same fitting. NAPA Part # PUJ 621. You will also need the ball and seal Part PUJ 617 and the u-joints.

John

 

Thanks again guys. I did kind of wonder about the seals in the back of my mind and that is a huge help.

It's snowing here now but the warm weather is on the way! Time to get dirty hands.

I'll let you know how things work out.

Best regards,

-Keith

PS: I looked up a pic. of that flush grease fitting. Brilliant!

 

OK Guys, I've read the many posts on this topic and your discussion has convinced me that I'd better do this sooner than later also. Now here's the tough part, I really don't think i should be doing this particular job, seems like I could get in a buncha trouble as I'm mostly an oil change, belt change, plug change alternator change kinda guy. That being said, where would I go to get this done here in Dallas? I realize you couldn't tell me where specifically (unless I'm way too lucky) but what type of shop would I go to?

Thanks again for all the insight!

 

Drive Train or Drive Axle shops should be easy to find.

It's likely their main focus is big trucks, but they'll take care of you.

Here in Austin we have Austin Drive Train on 183.

 

I had a shop do mine. $187.50 plus I bought the parts. So had it done for about $260 total. The ball seal can be a bitch to remove. I'm glad I had someone do it as it was done quickly and I wasn't screwing around with it for 2 days.