As for a cleaner I used Purple Power, you can get it almost anywhere in 5 GAL cans. It eats the gunk off like candy, but don't soak plastic or rubbers parts in it. Don't get it inside bearings or water pumps or parts like that either. Oil metal parts after you have cleaned them to prevent rust, or spray down with WD40.

 

I'm about to order the Head Gasket kit from British Atlantic. The kit is for a Bosch motor. How do I verify if I have a Bosch motor? I have a 2003 LR Discovery.

 

All of the 2003's were Bosch.

 

2003 is Bosch motor, it has the large plenum with all the humps in it.

Okay, while they are still fresh in my mind here are my tips (all the screw ups I made)

When removing the head bolts put all of your 3/8 inch drive tools away in a safe place or they will get slaughtered. I busted two sockets and a breaker bar before getting wise. A 1/2 inch drive deep 5/8 inch impact socket worked great for me with the upper half of my floor jack handle as a cheater/extender. The only one I couldn't get it on was the aft outboard driver's side - which I think is the first one you remove.

When you are putting it back together get one of those metal marking paint pens at the auto parts store. After you tighten the head bolts down to the initial torque use the pen to mark the bolt heads. I just made a forward pointing dash mark. Then it is very easy to tell when you have gone 90 and then 180 degrees.

Before you put the intake and plenum back on make absolutely sure that the harness connector that plugs into the crank position sensor mounted on the bracket at the rear of the LH head is hanging out the left rear side and not laying up in the middle somewhere where you'll never be able to reach it - ask me how I know, spent about an hour with mechanical fingers lying on top of the motor with my face stuck as far back there as I could get it where I could just barely get a glimpse of the connector. Better yet, make sure that connector is plugged in before putting manifold or rocker covers on.

As mentioned earlier I wouldn't bother trying to clean the tops of the pistons. I had a complete valve job done, installed the new guide seals, disassembled and cleaned up the rocker shaft assemblies, installed new Kingsborne ignition harnesses, all new coolant hoses and thermostat and new serpentine belt. I also flushed out all of the orange dex-cool coolant and put in regular green glycol based coolant.

I also bought one of those nifty cable operated spring clamp tools which made installing the clamps much easier. Even with new hoses you may end up with some dribbles here and there that will require adjustments. The coolant system is like a Rube Goldberg device, overly complex. I eventually had to give up on a couple of spots and replaced the spring clamps with worm clamps. You can get the good ones that don't cut into the hose at a marine store.

As for time to complete - don't ask me, I started just before Christmas and finished it up the second week of February!

 

Ok, SOS... I just cracked the drivers side SAI manifold! *@#$! Any ideas where I can order a replacement besides the dealer?

 

I'm pretty sure you could just get it fixed, it's not exactly some piece of exotic rocket science - basically just a pipe fitting.

 

It's a piece of copper tubing, silver solder will fix it. Next time oil the large nuts before loosening or fastening it.

 

No, really I just need to replace it. It is warped/cracked beyond belief. I've tried everything to remove the damn thing. Lube/oil/ wd40 etc. Can anyone point me to a LR wrecking yard? I don't mind used SAI manifold.

 

Secondary air injector plumbing is almost always sacrificed to the Rover gods. It's a sign of good luck when you make an offering.

On a side note, am I the only one who blew the head bolts off with a 1/2 impact wrench? Air power makes light work of disassembly ;-)

 

Is this the part you broke?

It's kind of pricey. Maybe a used one would work?

Land Rover Fuel System Parts | Pipe - Secondary Air Injection (BOSCH)