PREFACE: PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE, DON'T get into a huge debate on which is better for cold climates etc. or how X is brighter than Y. I think we can all agree just by doing a search of this forum, those horses have been beat to death so there is no need to resurect them just to kill them again (please).

I just wanted to do this as I hadn't found any good instructions on how to do it correctly without turning your wiring into a complete hack job.

Right so for those that still want to do this conversion, this is what I did
1. Buy all the LED bulbs you need for what you are converting, some/all etc.
2. Install said bulbs
3. Now, to Kill the turn indicator Hyperflash - The right way (without, chopping and splicing resistors in at every bulb):

Turn Vehicle to "ON", plug in Nanocom:
1. Turn on Nanocom
2. Select Discovery II
3. Select Motronic
4. Select Valeo BCU
5. Select Settings
6. Select TransM-Lock-Warn (NO CLUE why it's buried in this menu vs lights etc menu, but it is)
7. Select Right Arrow (3X)
8. Select "Disable Bulb Failure" (you want to disable this and lets face it, LED's don't go out near as often as incandescent bulbs and a good owner does routine walk around to check for bulbs burned out)
9. Select "X" (backout)
10. Select WRITE SETTINGS
11. "Write Settings to ECU" SELECT - "OK"
12. You can now back out/power off the Nanocom. (Other nanocom type vehicle interfaces, may be able to do the same thing - I only have a nanocom for instructions)

This takes care of the turn signals, BUT, if you are doing the brake lights too, you will now have lost your cruise control. To fix this you need to use one (1) LED Load Resistor (what I used is below) to re-load the brake light circuit sufficiently enough for the Cruise Control circuit to be happy (trust me it won't be if you don't do this). I installed mine (99MY) behind the driver side rear tail light as it's hidden, protected from the elements and the load resistor can be screwed down properly with short/small self tap screws allowing it to dissipate heat properly (later model years may need mounting elsewhere to access the brake light circuit). I know every load kit on amazon/ebay/etc. comes with "vampire taps"...PLEASE for the sake of your rover (which I hope you love/want to keep forever) DON'T use these. Splice/solder them in correctly or have a friend/shop do it....Vampire Taps are just a short waiting to happen. When I get a chance I will upload a pic of my load resistor installed.

That's it, you're LED's will work without tripping your Cruise Control out and without strobing (hyperflashing) when you turn your signal on.

(Even this link shows it comes with the red colored "vampire taps"....UGH).

 

Interesting. I have a D1 which has a similar/same CC ECU and I can't figure out why it won't remain engaged. This could be my issue. (and the short I have which keeps the driver's side brake light on whenever the lights are on)

Good food for thought.

 

Great and interesting write up, I wonder why "bulb failure" is even a setting that can be changed? Just this morning I was behind a car with a quickly blinking tail and side marker turn indicator and was playing the game: "Burned out light or bad LED conversion?"

 

If you you have a short keeping your brake light on...that IS (most likely) what is keeping your cruise from working...it monitors the brake circuit to disengage the cruise control when you hit your brakes. I would get that worked out before digging too deep into anything else.

 

Not sure, unless it was "forward planning" by Auto Manufacturers for LED lighting...I have software that lets me tinker with ford and mazda BCU stuff as well, and they both have the same option to enable/disable it. at least in every year and model the software supports that I have played around with (probably 25-30 different vehicles).

 

Thanks for the excellent detailed write up. And thanks for the preface (my first reaction was, why would you want to do this &#129764.