D2 Radiator Removal
#11
About a half pound of gelignite works well, don't do much for the truck though
Seriously, I don't know too much about the V8 rad but the TD5 is easyish. Check the RAVE for the simplest way but also checkout their revisions as often they have found a quicker way.
#12
Nope
No horn, battery box, or air box removal is needed.
2 visible bolts on the top, remove grill, remove rubber flaps on each side of condensor(3 rivot screws each), now 1 phillips head screw on the front center of each side can be reached.
Slide transmission cooler out of plastic on lower front driver side of radiator.
That's it.
Thanks for the help guys.
No horn, battery box, or air box removal is needed.
2 visible bolts on the top, remove grill, remove rubber flaps on each side of condensor(3 rivot screws each), now 1 phillips head screw on the front center of each side can be reached.
Slide transmission cooler out of plastic on lower front driver side of radiator.
That's it.
Thanks for the help guys.
#13
You may be missing two brackets that hold the top of the radiator and also the condenser to the frame. Bracket #10 is fastened behind the horn with a single 10mm bolt on each side of the chassis. I only point it out because they will prevent the radiators from moving around and it would be worth trying to scavenge a set the next time you're at the yard. Or I can grab you a set the next time one shows up at mine.
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shanechevelle (07-16-2018)
#14
You may be missing two brackets that hold the top of the radiator and also the condenser to the frame. Bracket #10 is fastened behind the horn with a single 10mm bolt on each side of the chassis. I only point it out because they will prevent the radiators from moving around and it would be worth trying to scavenge a set the next time you're at the yard. Or I can grab you a set the next time one shows up at mine.
I agree
#15
I'm not missing any brackets, everything is there.
As said, only the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor need removed, to access one phillips head screw per side. As well as the 2 at the top facing the front(just as the Rave shows).
Much easier removal than any of the descriptions here.
Removing horns gives access to nothing.
Removing battery box and air box is just a harder way than removing the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor.
Removal was much easier than it looked, it's just hard to see where the plastic radiator tanks unbolt from the plastic bracket.
As said, only the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor need removed, to access one phillips head screw per side. As well as the 2 at the top facing the front(just as the Rave shows).
Much easier removal than any of the descriptions here.
Removing horns gives access to nothing.
Removing battery box and air box is just a harder way than removing the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor.
Removal was much easier than it looked, it's just hard to see where the plastic radiator tanks unbolt from the plastic bracket.
#17
I'm not missing any brackets, everything is there.
As said, only the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor need removed, to access one phillips head screw per side. As well as the 2 at the top facing the front(just as the Rave shows).
Much easier removal than any of the descriptions here.
Removing horns gives access to nothing.
Removing battery box and air box is just a harder way than removing the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor.
Removal was much easier than it looked, it's just hard to see where the plastic radiator tanks unbolt from the plastic bracket.
As said, only the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor need removed, to access one phillips head screw per side. As well as the 2 at the top facing the front(just as the Rave shows).
Much easier removal than any of the descriptions here.
Removing horns gives access to nothing.
Removing battery box and air box is just a harder way than removing the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor.
Removal was much easier than it looked, it's just hard to see where the plastic radiator tanks unbolt from the plastic bracket.
#18
Screws hold it to the brackets, no need for the brackets themselves to come off.
I removed the horns and the foam behind them, and the radiator was still over an inch inside each opening, I can look straight through those openings to the engine bay with the radiator in, and not see the radiator.
Just remove the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor, the phillips head screws are then visible. Those and the top 2 that also face the front.
That's it.
I removed the horns and the foam behind them, and the radiator was still over an inch inside each opening, I can look straight through those openings to the engine bay with the radiator in, and not see the radiator.
Just remove the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor, the phillips head screws are then visible. Those and the top 2 that also face the front.
That's it.
#19
Screws hold it to the brackets, no need for the brackets themselves to come off.
I removed the horns and the foam behind them, and the radiator was still over an inch inside each opening, I can look straight through those openings to the engine bay with the radiator in, and not see the radiator.
Just remove the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor, the phillips head screws are then visible. Those and the top 2 that also face the front.
That's it.
I removed the horns and the foam behind them, and the radiator was still over an inch inside each opening, I can look straight through those openings to the engine bay with the radiator in, and not see the radiator.
Just remove the rubber flaps on each side of the condensor, the phillips head screws are then visible. Those and the top 2 that also face the front.
That's it.
Hmmm, I'm sure I will have to disassemble yet again one day...I will try that.
#20