Hey,

I've got a '99 D2

I have been getting intermittent misfires on a number of the cylinders and occasional rough idle, I was waiting for taxes to do a full tuneup. The other day it was running great in the morning. My wife took it to the store and when she came out she started it and then she said it died while idling. Went to pick her up and I couldn't get it started.

Here are the symptoms

- starter working fine but no ignition on own.

- when I spray starter fluid into the intake it will fire but will quickly die

- if I spray starter fluid and hit the gas I can keep it turning over until I let off and then it dies out again.

If it starts with starter fluid I am assuming it's not spark. I am leaning towards an air flow problem but am not ruling out a fuel pump issue after reading some of the forums.

We tow strapped it over to orielly's to get the codes read. It gave off:

P1171 and 1174 - assuming these might be caused by the use of starter fluid after disconnecting the maf.
P1300
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
P0308
P1668 - the rear lock actuators are busted and the back doors occasionally get opened before we unlock the truck so I am assuming this is related to that. We've never had problems getting it started before.

I really would rather not just start throwing parts at it. Can anyone help with further diagnostics.

Best,
Larry

 

If you had no spark , the starting fluid would not fire ... (Fuel pump)

 

Looking for something a bit more diagnostic. Like I said I don't want to just throw parts at it. If it is the fuel pump, why would it remain running if I rev the gas, wouldn't it still fail?

 

It's unlikely to be a spark or air problem because it will run on starting fluid. So I'd start with the fuel system.

The very first thing I would so is swap the fuel pump relay with the washer relay next to it. This is a fairly common issue that is commonly misdiagnosed as a bad crankshaft position sensor. This takes 10 seconds to do.

As I recall, a bad crankshaft position sensor kills the spark and fuel, so that isn't your problem.

If the relay doesn't fix it, check the fuse in the engine compartment fuse box.

Then you can check the fuel rail pressure. Wear goggles, as I recall it should measure 50psi if the pump is working.

 

This has worked for me MULTIPLE times...

While cranking, take a rubber mallet, and smack the fuel tank on the outside.

Don't try to put a hole in the tank nor do you want to dent it, but make some pretty good swings and see if it starts.

This has worked on various vehicles not just rovers.

Last summer my buddies Jeep wouldn't start, banged on the tank, it started. Sent him to advance auto with the mallet, he bought a pump, banged on the tank, made it back and we changed his pump out, no problem since.

 

Checked relays and fuses, doesn't seem to be any issues there. Can you check the fuel pressure without it idling? Would you check it while cranking?

 

Beating the fuel tank didn't seem to work but thanks for the idea

 

Fuel pressure will build with the key in the "ON" position. It should be able to start if it's 35 PSI or above.

If you're diagnosing driveability problems, you'll want to check fuel pressure with the engine running, and see if the pump can maintain fuel pressure under load. I don't think you're to this point yet, so just measure with the ignition in "ON".

 

Un plug the mass airflow meter. cycle the key a few times. Leave it unplugged and start it. Ur welcome.

 

Interesting. What does that do?