I replaced the old battery a year ago because it would be dead every other day. Does same thing with newer battery.

It would last a couple days but now its dead everyday. Before it would make it a couple days before dead.

I just pulled the neg. battery lead. hooked up test light. Its on.

I have pull all of the fuses (5 at a time) in the dash and under the hood plus the relays. Light is still on.

Any ideas on what else to try?

Yesterday after i jumped it, it was in limp mode til i reset it. its only been in limp mode once before a couple years ago when neg cable was loose.

 

What is the battery voltage when it's running? Should be around 13.4v or higher and with the engine off it should be 12.5v or higher.

Put a good trickle charger on your battery and get it back to being 100% charged. When the battery voltage is on the low side you can have all sorts of electrical faults like M&S flashing just to name one.

 

It would obviously appear to be a parasitic drain on the battery unless you have a bad ground/earth somewhere. You'll need to check with a multi-meter to establish the size of the drain with the keys removed and then identify what is causing it, it's a slow process of elimination, a pure guess would be a duff rectifier in the alternator. To drain a battery in a couple of days seems a largish parasitic drain to me.

 

the voltage when it is running is 13+.

im not an expert with this harbor freight meter so here i go.

I set it to 200m on the dca setting. connected the neg post to the neg lead and its 22.3

like i said in the original post. i removed every fuse (5 at a time) and still showing a draw with the test light.

 

At the 200mAh setting only drawing 22.3 mAh is nothing to your battery overnight as in 24 hours that is only 0.53 amps, peanuts really to a healthy battery. IMO you seem to have a problem, either with an earth/ground point or a duff battery. The alternator should be charging between 13.4 and 14.7 amps as any lower depicts an alternator issue. Take the battery off and charge the battery to maximum and leave it overnight to see whether it drops in power output, if it does take it to a workshop and have them do a ampere drop test unless you have the equipment to do this. Also checkout your cable clamps and earthing grounds for continuity as although they 'seem' OK they may well be defective.

 

i will give that a try. i replaced the battery in march because of it being dead every couple of days. but it still did it with the new battery. could of got a bunk battery.

 

Check all grounds, and make absolutely sure the post and terminals are spotless. On my LR3 when the dome lights stayed on 30+ min that was enough for my LR3 battery to drop down and the alternator to kick in to charge it back up. I metered my battery and it was like 10.9v. I was able to start the LR3 without jumping it, but as soon as I did I smelled a lovely electrical smell coming from the alternator. Apparently my original alternator wasn't used to having to kick in and charge so when it did it couldn't handle the amp draw and it fried something internally. I charged my battery over-night and as long as the battery didn't drop down past 12.0-12.5v the battery light wouldn't come on. If I drove with the lights on for an extended period of time the battery light would come on and the alternator could not charge it back up enough to get the light out.

I was in a hurry so I grabbed a 100% brand new alternator off of Ebay with free shipping, charged my battery back up, and the problem went away. I've had similar issues with D2's but sometimes it wouldn't trip the battery light. I only could pin point the exact issue once I connected my Scan Gauge II up to it and saw the Alternator drop down to 10.5-12.9v charge vs 13.0-14.5v range or used a meter.

I would charge the battery back up, and while it's charging clean all the grounds, the connection at the alternator, and just for giggles change out the 150AMP fuse for the alternator. Most of the OEM ones are just a strip of metal rated at a certain amp. On my 99 D2 that I bought with a bad battery and alternator. The first thing I did was replace it with a brand new 150AMP Mega Fuse for 5.00. Then I replaced the Alternator, and the battery and drove it 4.5hr home without a single issue vs the previous owner letting it sit for 6 months because they couldn't figure it out. While it sat 6 months the battery acid went to town on the positive terminal and the bolt/nut that secure it fell apart in my hand. I was able to save it later with a trip to a junk yard, and a good cleaning.

Sams Club was having a great sale on their Duracell Group 34 AGM Marine/RV Battery. Regular price of 119.00 then a 25.00 instant savings. You can't beat that for an AGM Marine/RV battery!!! I grabbed one the other day for my 98 D1 as it's 6 year old Interstate Battery had finally had it's last winter.

 

thanks everyone for the reply. I will do all the things suggested.

Hope everyone had a safe and festive Christmas.

 

Quick question for you. Did you convert from rear air suspension to coil suspension? If so let me know and we can troubleshoot from there. Merry christmas

 

when i bought it a few years ago it was already converted to coil suspension. So i don't know if they had it reprogrammed. I do hear the air pump activate sometimes when i start it.

One day I hope to get a good code reader / programmer.

I just have the iCarsoft 930 when i needed to fix the 3 amigos.