A few ways. Perhaps the most direct is to simply start pulling fuses until the excess draw disappears and then go from there.

 

I would use the led bulb trick on the terminals and then start pulling fuses to see which one causes the bulb to go off.

 

^^ This. I have a constant sound coming from the ABS modulator. Sounds almost like something rotating but very faint. Stops when I unplug the unit.

However, that did not change my 0.4 reading on the battery drain.

Mike,
I downloaded that manual before I even joined this forum but honestly, I need help interpreting it most of the time. It's a big learning curve and I really appreciate help from you folks.

 

A little off topic, but i have noticed that if i start my truck without hitting the gas, my alternator wont charge. If i let it idle my battery light comes on until i rev it. Not sure if this is typical, but you mentioned you had an issue in a parking lot so i thoight i would throw that out there.

Also, i have never seen my rover over 14v when charging, and i have had everything checked out. Been like that for years. Perhaps i have alternator issues, but i seem to be dealing with it.

Another to check is the connections. Make sure they are nice and tight on the battery and follow,the leads and make sure they are tight as well.

Edit: Also check the ground on the alternator. I have had sismiliar issues because of that.

 

Ok, this is going from bad to worse. During all the testing with the multimeter I never started the car. Once I put the positive battery cable back and plugged in the ABS again, the sound started up just like usual. Went to start the car and got the usual lights on the dash when I put the key in but they all quickly faded. Tried turning the key and got a click. Now it is completely dead on the dash. When I open the door I get a faint "door open" ring that quickly fades.
The battery is showing 12.6v, tested on the posts and on the cables. Have 12.5x where the positive cable meets the main fuse box. No sound from the ABS modulator. Dome light does come on. What could this be?

 

Clean the terminals/clamps and retighten.

 

ok, where to begin.......

You need to redo your draw test but here lies the difference. You need to make sure all your doors "faked locked". You need to replicate the vehicle being asleep. Having a door open with the bcu seeing a door open will not cut it. Any latches that can be closed, close them. Then, once you have your meter connected, leave the vehicle for 15 minutes. That should give enough time for everything to shut down. Then check the amperage draw.
I like to say it shouldnt be more that .04 of an AMP. If you have more that that, then start pulling fuses. One at a time. Until the draw decreases. If still nothing, something else you need to check is for RF signals. Something that would keep the vehicle away, causing this draw. Also, check your grounds. All of them. Godspeed and good luck

 

That did it. The positive lead is very touchy. Looked clean enough but after I pulled both, wire brushed and tightened everything worked.

Still need to figure out that ABS problem now.

 

Did this after the truck sat for over an hour while I ran some errands. No noise from the ABS and the biggest reading I could get was 0.01. ?? Seems low but maybe my $14 tester is not up to par? IDK but the darn thing starts when I need it to and I read that the ABS modulator can make that noise for up to 10 minutes after turning the truck off so I'm hopeful that is all there is. I'll monitor for the next couple of days.

 

That is what mine reads on the draw test as well...not bad.

Could be the terminal cleaning will fix your problems.