Greetings all!!


new to landrovers, own a disc II SE 2001 68k miles on it

aprox (2-3) last few days engine temperature has been creeping to the red.but never quite getting there...

but today I noticed it did hit the red and a little RED light came on.. but i was on the road so couldn't do much... then I look again and see that the temp guage needle has dropped WAY DOWN below the blue, almost like its dead..

now i'm gettin worried.. THEN a few minutes later, SERVICE ENGINE SOON light comes on... now I'm SCARED!!!

I'm hearing all these clack, and click noises as i'm driving.. I pull over as soon as i can and pop the hood... i see slight smoke MORE Like steam...coming out of the left side of the engine.. out of the coolant resavoir to be exact and i also see its drippin/overflowin more then SLIGHTLY but not majorly..


I'm scared yall what could this be or mean? I was about to take a 1200+ mile road trip with it in 5 days and this IS THE LAST THING i need right now..


please advise... hopefully its something small simple and quick..

DESPERATE for help and advise here..

I don't have internet access at home but you can email me at phabeon@hotmail.com

please

THANK YOU!!



oNe

 

Why did you continue to drive it????
Huge mistake.
I will be up till 8:30 pm, Colorado time, I would suggest you call me ASAP.
303-862-7680

 

can i call u today?

i had no choice was on road..

i may have avoided danger or massive damage i hope....i put in the green stuff and its holdin me down for now but need advice input desperatel, please let m e know

so far so good but i know the green stuff is not whats required... service engine soon is still on now 24 hours later but temp guage seems to be stablized now..


please do let me knw!

thank you kindly


rolando

 

Call me.

 

ok went down to autozone and had them test out my engine service light

its error number : P0118

print out shows

Definition:

ECT (engine coolant Temp) circuit

Explanation:

THe Engine Coolant Temparture signal is used for various systems in the vehicle

Probable causes

1. check connector and wiring

2. Sensor open or shorted-replace sensor


The PCM has determined that the input from the engine coolant temparature sensor is higher than expected for the current engine operating conditions.


?????


with all that sed and done.... I topped off wih regular green stuff coolant cuz it basically seems it was jus low and by low i mean no coolant was left....

I'm about to do a coolant flush on it and get back to dex co and do an oil change..

would it be safe to say i dogded a bullet or what should I be on the lookout for? on 2nd thought i better let the pro's do the flush and oil change as they might be more likely to catch something...

what do you all think about the error code?

interestingly enough after drivin it around to the auto zone and then back home the SERVICE ENGINE soon light has now gone off..

fingers crossed...

please let it be that it was low on coolant and that its now ok after the flush and oil change..

let me know what you think mike

thanks again!


oNe

 

Get your coolant flushed out ASAP. Mixing regular antifreeze and Dexcool is not good. These radiators have a tendancy to plug anyways. Make sure it has a good water flush a couple of times before refilling with Dexcool.

Might want to have a cooling system pressure test done while you are at it. If coolant was low, it leaked out somewhere. FInd out where and fix it before you overheat again and kill your motor. You got lucky if it isn't blown. Most times, it doesn't take much to drop a liner.

 

Get a compression test done on all 8 cyl to confirm you have not dropped a liner.

 

maybe i should be starting a new post but seeing as how it continues off of this one i'll keep it to this post.. my apologies if i'm mistaking...

I may have dodged a bullet and believe me i'm countin my blessings!!

couldn't figure out the coolant flush myself, (too many hoses) so i took it in plus i wanted a "real" shop to have a look at it..

shop swapped the oil and filter and did a tire rotate and THEY TRIED to do the coolant flush.. in other words they flushed it a couple of times and came to the conclusion that there's a leak somewhere...

I asked how they knew and they stated well once its topped off, its not buildin up any pressure... but they could not locate the leak anywhere..., per the shop mechanic" I tried checkin each hose and they all seem fine but its leaking somewhere.. i just don't know where.? " ....they don't get too many landrovers in there... Tuffy's shop... all they could do is refer me to a landrover dealer....


so with that in mind, what do you all think?

what exactly do i tell the dealer... and my main concern is what i'm loookin at in terms of cost? can you guys quote me a rough estimate on

a cooling system pressure test?

and this compression test ajh speaks of?


I mean the Tuffy guy's topped her off and now she runs fine, SERVICE ENGINE SOON light came right off and stayed off!!! she runs like a dream and furthermore it now does NOT take 20 minutes of running it for the heater to come on.. before it took lke forever for heat to crank out...

I'm watchin the coolant level and it all seems fine now!! THere is no leakage on the ground even after 12 hours of jus sittin there..and the level stays correct..

FURTHEMORE if it was a cylinder or blown gasket wouldn't there be evidence of that? ie.e white smoke in the tail light or pressue build up in the resavoir tank?

i just don't know what to do... if it wasn't for this 1500 mile road trip i have coming up this friday i would be a bit more at ease...

please advise.. any and all input VERY MUCH appreciated!!

thank you all


oNe

 

Here's one bit of advice for the flush, make sure they drain the block. The plug on the right side is inside the engine mount and the left one looks similar but is a little easier to find. Half your coolant is in the block and unless you drain it the new mix will be contaminated and not predictable as to water/coolant ratio.

As for finding a leak, go to a radiator shop they'll be able to find it.

 

These are a sealed system, and a little different from those most shops see in a day. I think the system at the reservoir only gets to 25 PSI. To do a pressure test, they manually pressurize the system and check for bleed off. Also, the system has to be bled properly for it to function. If you hear a sloshing sound from the dash, or your heater is intermittent, you have air trapped in the system.

If you dropped a liner, you would know. To do a compression test, you hook a tester to each cylinder through the spark plug hole. If it is running ok, this probably isn't needed. Call around to a few radiator shops, or find a small rover shop and ask how much for a coolant pressure test...