I always hated the ABS off road. Always coming on when going down a steep slope. Just plain dangerous off road. When I put in HD axles in my D1, the Jeep off road place that put them in said the ABS was not compatible with the new axles so they did not hook it back up. I worried a bit that my on road safety might be compromised but it sure was not and I sure don't miss the crap ABS off road. It is a strange system that sounded wierd as well when it engaged. I don't miss it a bit.

 

I have been studying the schematics for the ABS system for quite some time and doing research into my DTC (P1317 ABS rough road line low fault) upon examining the schematics I have found that fuse 6 I think under the hood goes through a relay to the abs pump, and fuse 4 under the dash goes to the ABS ECU. the wheel speed sensors (which when I tested my ABS light trouble code it had 4 codes all pointing to the front right sensor) are wired to the ABS ECU, and the ABS ECU is connected to the OBD II computer. Now from my research I have found that when the wheel sensors offset from one another or 1 wheel losses traction and the others maintain traction (truck goes over a bump) it trips the abs light and disables the ABS system because the truck thinks you are offroading and does not need it. Now the P1317 code is drawn when this state is constant (the truck see's one wheel not spinning and trips the CEL) I dont really see how this is an Emissions related problem, and I have heard that land rover dealers can make an adjustment to the vehicles OBD II system so this will not trip the CEL (also heard it didn't work though) now my concern about this is if I disconnected power to the unit that recieves the signal from the wheel speed sensors (the fuse under the dash), how will that signal get to the OBD II computer?

I just don't understand how I get a DTC that is labeled ABS rough road line low fault, litterally the next time I start the truck after pulling those ABS fuses, without it having anything to do with the ABS fuse?

I really just need a more indepth explanation of what I need to do to fix the problem (last time I cleaned the speed sensor very well, replaced the fuses and cleared the code, I then drove the truck for about 1000 miles without a problem until the abs started acting up again, so I pulled the fuses and here I am again)

 

Well, maybe it's just me but I think the ABS system on my D1 is terrific. When I first got it, the ABS didn't work, and it sucked on ice and snow. But I fixed it and it works great. Maybe I got a lemon......

Eric

 

Could you share with us how you fixed it???

 

If you pull the ABS fuse the ABS light will stay on because there is a fault with it, the fault being no power.
w

 

the rough road signal isnt really a fault. it means that there is a fault. rough road is triggered in the engine managment system to keep there from being false misfires, ie. youre going over a very bumpy road, your engine along with the rest of the truck is moving a lot, this will throw off the crank sensor reading and you can get false misfires and other issues... that said, a rough road signal in the engine means either that you have a fault in your abs or that your engine cant communicate with your abs. and i just reread these posts. your mil is on because you have no power to the abs... chances are to fix the abs all you need to do is push the sensors all the way down into their holes in the swivels/backing plate out back.

 

X2 on that. If your light is on, check your wheel sensors first. My ABS light mysteriously is out. (pulled the bulb on the dash)

 

I guess what I need to do is hook up my multimeter to the wheel sensor wires (at the ABS ECU) and read each individual one of them while I drive, to see if one is going bad, because I cleaned one and it didn't take long before my ABS light was coming on quite a bit. It was when I hit the brakes and rolled out into traffic with my family in the truck that I pulled the ABS fuses. now the light is always on cause the fuses is out. when it rolled into traffic it was making that horrible banjo sound.

 

The ABS hiccup was one of the reasons the guy that sold me my DI gave it to me so cheap. He had just had it in the shop for new brakes (new rotors, pads, & CALIPERS all around) thinking it would fix his dangerous braking problem (he obviously had an unscrupulous mechanic that saw him coming a million miles away). When he got the truck back and his problem wasn't cured, he put it up for sale on Craigslist - and just through luck of getting on at the right time - I noticed his ad 2 minutes after it was posted. I wasn't even seriously looking for a third car. hehe. Called him, dropped by, test drove, and gave him $1100 for his dangerous Land Rover. hehe. I drove a block away, lifted the hood, looked around for a few seconds, spotted what seemed the most likely candidate for the abs unit, pulled the plug - and voila - Land Rover no longer dangerous. Still had the issue of that annoying little light on the dash for the ABS & SRS. So when I got home, I unscrewed the the 2 screws holding the dashpod, lifted it out, located the offending lights, and popped both of them out. No more annoying dash lights. Now the Land Rover stops on a dime, and I'll never have to worry about the abs when I'm off roading. I'm in a big 4000lb truck. I don't want longe stopping distances anyway. I'm a competent driver. ABS just gets in my way...

 

Sure. Someone posted a "how-to" by using a jumper between pins 5 and 15 on the OBD to get the ABS light to flash the codes. My problem was the brake light switch. (code 26, I think)

Eric