Hi.
It is the third one that fails.
First, two years ago. Second, one year ago. Today, again. Same RR wheel.

Every time replaced with 'remanufactured AC Delco 18FR2755' has ran fine. For a year.

Question is : lifting the wheel off ground in dragging condition, if the bleeder is opened and the drag releases ---> It would not be the caliper fault but some check valve action in the hydraulic circuit, correct ?

If by opening the bleeder the caliper still drags, the caliper is at fault, right ?

Has any one found a damaged inner liner of the flex hose that would behave as a check valve ?
Has anyone confirmed the problem being only the slider pins ? They come new with the replaced calipers, but, can they fail that soon ? They look perfect and clean.

I have no problem replacing the caliper again, but the point is : Is there something hiding that we are not observing or examining ?

Can pads or rotor be somehow causing this dragging ?

Is there two brands of original calipers ? Lucas and Centric (attached) ? Or wrong vendor picture ?

 

guide pins are a big problem in the Northeast, I have replaced just about all of them. You should be able to collapse them and have them spring back by hand. I have one dico down n partly because of a froze guide pin

 

If you open the bleeder and fluid comes out and then the wheel turns, it is NOT the caliper. First likely fault is collapsed hose, second is master cylinder/binding brake pedal or linkage, third is a long shot and it is sticky valves in the modulator.

If you open the bleeder and the caliper is still grabbing, the caliper pistons are probably binding internally. You can pop the pistons out and see why, or just replace the caliper.

 

Thanks.
We agree, Chris.
About "master cylinder/brake pedal or linkage"; that would cause both same-axle to exhibit the fault, right ? Am ruling that out unless sharper opinion.

With shiny/smooth perfect slider pins, I tend to rule that out.
The long shot sticky something in the modulator would reappear immediately after replacing a caliper; but does not happen. I tend to rule it out.

What is left is hose, piston or unsuspected other. Will see.

 

No, cross way I believe, like an X. LF/RR RF/LR you would have a problem with the rear brake also. Maybe way less noticeable.

 

I had a issue like this on my MGB (I know not a Landy) but it was a hose that was collapsing and blocking flow when the pedal was released. Drove me crazy for a month or so till I figured it out. Replaced with some nice new stainless steel braided lines and no issues since.

 

Well, opened the bleed screw as planned, fluid dripped fine and caliper still biting. Unscrewed the sliders and pried the piston back in with not too much effort. ¿?

RR caliper number three will be. No other wheel bothers.

Extra question :
If the pads shims were not perfectly flat, or, if the pads shims where missing... What would be the behavior ?