Diagnosing rebuilt engine - burning oil, lean, and low power up inclines
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Are the plugs seated properly with the sealing metal washers being slightly compressed? Please rule that out.
A second consideration is your PCV valves on the pass and driver side. If they are blocked or not attached your engine will chug oil. As posted previously- NOT using synthetic now is a good thing. At 14.99 a gallon, rotella is a deal and you can always add in the zinc additive and change it all out a few times while you sort this out.
Lastly, the noise on the fuel rail could be a sticking injector. Have you ruled that out, or moved it on a trail basis? You can clean and reinstall the plugs to reread what deposits wet/dry etc that show.
On a last inspection, I would look at the oil pick up screen. Left over sealant or contamiments from rebuild? If the top hat liners are designed to seal up the deck- what are mods or machining did the shop do?
Fitting reman injectors to rule that out... I remember a couple of the pintle caps were loose so I might have a vacuum leak -- however idle is really good, so likely not?. I have a brand new fuel pump so I might as well fit that too.
Oil pressure is perfect so I don't think dropping the pan is a good move at the moment
Is vacuum on OBD2? I don't remember seeing it. Or is it another tool? What numbers am I looking for?
What about exhaust? What can I check there? How do I know if the cats are in good working order? I'd get a code if they weren't, right?
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I have a lot of diagnosis and tests to do before pulling the heads... but the seals are something to keep in mind for sure. Is there anyway at all to verify the oil control rings are working properly?