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Died while driving and wont restart.

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Old May 26, 2026 | 12:22 PM
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evil_goat's Avatar
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From: Virginia
Question Died while driving and wont restart.

I took a scenic detour perpendicular to Shenandoah national park. About 30 minutes after I reached the bottom of the mountain, I heard a slight clunk and then had no pedal response. My engine had died. When I crank, it sounds normal, but it doesn't start or even show signs of starting. I didn't have any sputtering or other noises when it died, but I had music on, so its possible I didn't notice it.

I noticed that no fuel came out of the schrader valve behind the upper manifold when I pressed it. There was a hiss of air, that diminished each time I tried to start the car again to prime the pump. Does this mean a fuel pump issue, or could it still be the CPS? I have a spare off brand CPS. Is it worth swapping it?

Tried swapping the relay, fuse, and jumping a pin to the positive battery terminal. No spark from the wire when connecting, noise or new pressure from the schrader valve.

I tried pressing the inertia switch. I also unplugged and plugged it back in, and now it seems the hazard flashers are permanently on even after unplugging and reconnecting the battery. Is it in some sort of crash mode? How do I get it out of this state?

 
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Old May 26, 2026 | 12:27 PM
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sure sounds like fuel pump to me. I'm not terribly far from SNP on the south end at least. Unfortunately a spare fuel pump is not something I have laying around.
 
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Old May 26, 2026 | 02:37 PM
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You need to pop the inertia switch back up. Kinda like those small waffle fidget toys, where you press lightly and the bubble thingy pops one way and then back when you press the other side.
 
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Old May 26, 2026 | 06:21 PM
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I pressed it down and it stopped blinking. I think it somehow popped up when i was messing with it. It was the first thing I checked, once the car died and didnt go down.


I'm getting 12v at the pump connector while cranking, but not in key position 2. Do these cars prime the pump?
 
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Old May 26, 2026 | 06:37 PM
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Yes, they do prime, but only for about 20 secs. You can jumper the relay and it will run full time. If you jumper it you should be able to feel the fuel tank and feel it running.
 
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Old May 29, 2026 | 04:36 PM
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I replaced the fuel pump and it runs great now! Problem is that it takes forever to start. It was taking a bit longer than i would have liked before, but now it takes probably 5x as long and I have to crank it twice. Is there air in the system? Is there a problem with the new pump?
 
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Old May 29, 2026 | 05:35 PM
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There is a check valve/ pressure relief valve in the pump, it's supposed to hold pressure in the fuel rail so you don't have to crank so much. If it's not working correctly you have to refill the fuel line every time. Try this turn the key on for 20 seconds and then turn it off three times in a row. Then try to start the truck. If it starts right away you have found your problem. Every time you turn the key to the on position the pump comes on for 20 seconds to Prime the line
 
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Old May 30, 2026 | 12:21 AM
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Crankshaft position sensor?
 
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Old May 30, 2026 | 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Extinct
There is a check valve/ pressure relief valve in the pump, it's supposed to hold pressure in the fuel rail so you don't have to crank so much. If it's not working correctly you have to refill the fuel line every time. Try this turn the key on for 20 seconds and then turn it off three times in a row. Then try to start the truck. If it starts right away you have found your problem. Every time you turn the key to the on position the pump comes on for 20 seconds to Prime the line
Can I take the check valve from the old pump and install it in the new one? Or is this not replaceable?
 
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Old May 30, 2026 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by evil_goat
Can I take the check valve from the old pump and install it in the new one? Or is this not replaceable?
I have not looked at the D2 pump closely but usually they are integral. It's a dual function pressure regulator/check valve.
 
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