No Doubt mentioned CPS, it could be it, usual symptoms. Just got thrown a bit with the UltraGauge issue.

 

Doing some research and read that if the CkPS sensors fails while the engine is running then the engine will stall, a fault will be stored. If it fails while the engine is cranking then it won't start and no fault would be stored. In either case the tach would also cease to function and the MIL lamp will not extinguish.

Given that my issue occurs while the engine is running, I have no code, and no MIL lamp, it doesn't sound like it's the CkPS.

 

Is your UltraGauge wired or Bluetooth ? Bluetooth can be pretty finicky when connected to the ODB port if you have power fluctuations. A power fluctuation from a stall can cause a failure of the bluetooth connection.

 

It's Wired. If it were power loss it would have to be so momentary that the ODB port appears to remained powered but enough to reset the ECU.

 

Wired takes that out that should stay stable pretty much no matter what

 

Is your crank sensor a bosch or other? I had a new, off-brand, fail intermittently, after a few weeks; acted just like yours. I put the old Bosch back in, and haven't had an issue since (over a year; daily driver). Have had the same problems with other cars and off-brand electrical parts too. If you cut and bend your wheel-well sheet metal, right above the frame, the cps is right there, easy to swap and rule it out.

 

Hi Robert, can you lay your hands on a separate code reader? It does sound like a battery or ground problem or even a duff ECU or ground to it. The other thought was a defective fuel pump. IMO, which is limited, if it were the CPS defective the engine would die and not restart.

 

Yesterday I replaced the IACV with an old spare I had.

I have an iCarsoft reader and tried to recreate the stall today. I cranked it and let it idle in the driveway about 20 minutes, took it for a short spin and couldn’t get it to die when stopped. I’m not 100% convinced it’s fixed but I’m hoping to try and read the codes if it happens again. I was also going t check the run time variable to see if it looks like the ECU is restarting or considers it one run time.

 

While trying to get it it to stall today I noticed a few things. I let it warm up to temp and drove it around the block, while stopped at a stop sign I caught it trying to stall. I had my foot firmly on the brake but it only hesitated and did not die out. The SES light did come on, but since it didn't die it didn't stay on for a code.

I also noticed something different today. On my UG, the temp readings failed, but the RPM reading was still there.

Right now I'm just trying to reproduce the issue to grab a code if there is one.

 

Ok, after a few days I was able to get the truck to stall in my driveway (yay?).

The truck stalled and the SES, battery and oil pressure lights came on. When I hooked up my scanner there were no ODBII DTCs. However when I went into the Landrover mode it did read "Permanent Voltage Supply Fault". I also noticed as it sat there that the odometer was reading 0 miles.

I cranked it back up and it started on the first attempt. At first the odometer was still reading 0 miles and I couldn't shift out of park. After a few seconds I saw the odometer reading come back and I was able to shift out of Park.

So I think now I'm back to electrical fault. But why would it crank and the odometer read 0 miles? Could it be a main relay problem?