Thanks Charlie. I checked the hoses on the idle air control valve and guess what. When the LR Dealer replace the plugs, wires, and coil they didn't even bother to put clamps on either hose. I put on clamps and took it for a long ride. When I got home it was hot. It started back up fine. I am going to let it cool a bit and see what happens. If you hadn't posted above I wouldn't have found it. Nice call and thank you. I will post one more time if this seems to be the fix after a few trial runs lol.

 

A tentative hooray! Good grief. Just read my last post. Poor eyesight and a terrible phone keyboard leave me looking like an idiot. I'm glad you have good translation skills.

 

Well it was tentative lol. After it set a bit died once and low idle twice. Damn it lol

 

Yikes. That's why I am so reserved. Rovers trick you.

Still points to the idle air control valve though. Unplug the connector on the back (gray... Squeeze metal strip and pull connector back) and start it. If it is the same then if it was mine, I'd try cleaning that valve sensor with MAF cleaner (as shown on YouTube). As I mentioned, the IACV is expensive. I've got a lot of parts so, so far, I have been able to get another out of the garage, but I'm not looking forward to buying a new one.

 

Charlie I took the idle air control valve off. There was definately dirt/oil inside. I used MAF cleaner. When I took it off I didn't hear any rattle coming from it. After I cleaned it when I move it side to side the gate (for lack of a better word) that is in the center moves. Is it supposed to move lol. Was it so dirty it was stuck? I would hate to put it back in if it is broken.

 

Okay Charlie. Re installed. Starts and rpm's go up above 1000 for ten or twenty seconds then drop back down. They aren't dropping back to 750, just a bit above that. Taking it for a ride to warm it up and see how it does.

 

That sounds normal. Let me know how the ride goes.

 

Again runs fine and strong but once it heated up same scenario as before. Dies once or twice on start up then finally runs. Idle at first is closer to 500 than 750. So of the things that have been discussed what is your opinion on the TPS and the MAF or even after cleaning could it just be a bad idle air control valve?

 

If the TPS is unplugged or bad your transmission won't shift right and you have been driving and haven't mentioned that so let's cross that off the list for now. Also, you should have some dash lights such as traction control and abs.

I've never cleaned a IACV but you seemed to get some relief from cleaning yours. It is still suspect.

The MAF can cause all kinds of mischief without giving your a direct code. The way I check my MAF is to unplug it and drive. It runs like crap and you get an MAF code but if the MAF was bad it will sometimes clear up the other codes and then you know your culprit.

What is throwing me is that it runs fine until it is warmed up. You mean like when the temperature gets to normal or just a short bit?

You almost surely have something electronic going on because if it was a vacuum leak that would be present from start. Do you have a code reader? I can't recall. If so can you list all codes?

 

And I hate to even ask but have you checked your coolant level?