Gentlemen,

For anyone having this issue it is a FRONT COVER gasket issue. You might as well replace your timing chain while you are in there and maybe even your water pump unless you enjoy taking the truck apart.

Go outside RIGHT NOW and spray the hell out of those front crossmember bolts with PB blaster or something along those lines. If you don't have torches or an air chisel or a grinder, you might have a hell of a time getting that crossmember down.

A really rough overview of how it's done:
-Drop the crossmember
-Disconnect the transmission lines and the transmission line clips
-Drop the oil pan
-Remove drive belt
-Remove viscous fan, invest in the 2 $50 tools (total $100) or borrow them to get that fan off.
-Remove electrical connectors to a few items (crankshaft sensor and something else...can't remember what it was).
-Pop off the front cover. If you're not replacing the water pump I think you might still need the water pump gasket...can't remember. I know that the front cover/timing chain cover and the water pump share a few bolts for sure.

BE EXTREMELY careful backing out those front cover bolts. I had one snap off on me, they are cheap english crap...and a whole new set will run you $100. Just back them out extremely slowly. Don't get anxious or excited and think that you can ratchet them out quickly.

Clean the whole mess up...slap on some permatex to hold the gasket in place and slap it back on.

IF, you are replacing the timing chain as recommended...take a 1/2" drive extension and a 2x4 and get underneath the truck and insert the 1/2" drive extension into the crank counterweight and position the 2x4 against the extension so you can go topside with a breaker bar to get the pulley off...wait, you might have to do that anyways to get the timing chain cover off...but that's how you do it. Don't be stupid and put a socket on it and try to crank the truck over...if you've got an impact gun you can use that also.

You may also consider replacing your crankshaft sensor while you're in there. I didn't but it might not be a bad idea if you have a few dollars to throw.

 

Autoretards...er autozone sells a UV tracer dye for about $8.00 for a bottle. By one and shoot it into your radiator fill...drive it for awhile. You'll also need the $15.00 UV light that will probably only work for a few days if you're lucky...

When I first put dye in the system I couldn't find the leak until it got really bad.

If you suspect your front cover, which seems to be a fairly common thing although nobody on the forums seems to realize it...It's a tough thing to spot because it's obscured by the fan. You can't really see the leak from the bottom of the truck but you'll see a stream of coolant if it's a bad enough leak. Mine was leaking for about a year before it got horribly bad.

My recommendation is to run the truck to temperature...then shut it off and immediately get in there with the UV light and try to shoot down towards the drivers side near the water pump if you know where it's at. I know of at least 2 other people who were leaking in the EXACT SAME SPOT...so it's fairly common and it's a hell of a job.

I hope this helps.

 

Still new and not sure how to start a new thread. My apologies. I have a leak in one of the two aluminum screws in the top shrowd of the radiator (drivers side). As soon as it gets warm, it starts coming out. Can't tighten the screw or loosen it, just makes it worse. Not sure yet if it is leaking anywhere else, but what I do know is that I've been told that I probably need to replace the radiator. Pardon the expression, but bull****! Are you telling me that a screw hole in a plastic radiator cannot be welded. Not only that, but the only thing those screws appear to do is to hold on a plastic housing that holds the top hose and the return hose. I was quoted over $600. Are you kidding me?

 

You can let your indy radiator shop give you some ideas, the radiator will have maybe 20 PSI maximum. Buying a radiator on line is in the $200 and up range, there are some elcheapos that are maybe $150. Some people do "weld" plastic rad tanks, you can even use a nylon zip tie and melt in in there as a temporary patch (rad tanks are also a type of nylon). But usually once it has cracked or gotten a hole, it is not long before more of it comes apart. If you have many miles on the Disco, rad may have already become a victim to Dexcool sludge. Important point: temperature gauge will show rock solid mid scale reading, even though temp is actually getting warmer and warmer. By the time gauge moves, you have already entered the "2 Hot to Trot" zone. Please check your coolant level daily until resolved, and carry some bottled water with you in the event you run low. If you have a scanner or Ultra Gauge you can keep an eye on the digital coolant temp. Rdaiator stop leak is not a good choice for this problem. Little leaks usually become big ones. Overheat is head gaskets or worse. Drive if you must with caution. When it lets go, if at freeway speed, you will have little time to "save" engine.