DII Won't take transmission fluid or shift into gear :(
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
The grey "goo" is 1000% perfectly normal, thats why the magnet is there, to collect all of the goo, which is actually clutch material which gets shaved off little by little everytime the trans changes gears.
Second, what looks like 7qts of liquid on the ground may actually be only 2qts.
Liquid spills always look bigger than they actually are.
Take a measuring cup, fill it with water, now pour it on the cement, watch how much it spreads and how big the puddle looks even though its only 2 cups of water.
Fill the trans like you have been, then try and drive it.
Does it drive fine?
If so check the fluid level again, if still full call it good.
It would be a good idea to change the filter though, you can get it at AutoZone, its like $15.
Second, what looks like 7qts of liquid on the ground may actually be only 2qts.
Liquid spills always look bigger than they actually are.
Take a measuring cup, fill it with water, now pour it on the cement, watch how much it spreads and how big the puddle looks even though its only 2 cups of water.
Fill the trans like you have been, then try and drive it.
Does it drive fine?
If so check the fluid level again, if still full call it good.
It would be a good idea to change the filter though, you can get it at AutoZone, its like $15.
Last edited by capthook; May 16, 2012 at 10:08 PM.
Thread Starter
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Overlanding
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
I first filled my transmission to the fill line in the fill hole.
Once it started to leak out..
I started the Rover.
Put it in Neutral.
Crawled under there and added 1.5 containers more with the fluid transfer pump.
It did cross my mind that someone may jump into the truck and put it into gear
and run me over.
I was also getting chomped on by mosquitoes.
So, NO, I was not stupid and did not start the rover with a dry transmission sump.
I figured it this way..
Discovery I -
You put it in neutral and then fill it to the correct line on the dip stick (With the engine running).
Why should the Discovery II be different?
When I filled it to the lower part of the fill hole and then it was running out
(with the engine off)
then I drove it that way for a week.
I would hear a gurgling noise in the morning when I went into reverse.
Seemed to be LOW on fluid to me.
Once it started to leak out..
I started the Rover.
Put it in Neutral.
Crawled under there and added 1.5 containers more with the fluid transfer pump.
It did cross my mind that someone may jump into the truck and put it into gear
and run me over.
I was also getting chomped on by mosquitoes.
So, NO, I was not stupid and did not start the rover with a dry transmission sump.
I figured it this way..
Discovery I -
You put it in neutral and then fill it to the correct line on the dip stick (With the engine running).
Why should the Discovery II be different?
When I filled it to the lower part of the fill hole and then it was running out
(with the engine off)
then I drove it that way for a week.
I would hear a gurgling noise in the morning when I went into reverse.
Seemed to be LOW on fluid to me.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
Looks like you are filling up the transmission sump pan and you are still not going into gear.
The transmission filter has a plastic pipe on the bottom of it which draws transmission oil out of the sump.
If you blew a line and a lot of your oil came out - you may just need to add enough fluid to the sump to get the pump to prime.
I would think the transmission pump should pull the transmission fluid UP from the sump and start circulating it.
Without the transmission pump pulling the fluid up - you don't have any
transmission fluid pressure in the valve body.
And, your torque convertor may not have enough fluid to transfer torque.
IF you can't get the transmission pump to pull up the fluid - your transmission filter may be clogged enough to stop the pump from self priming.
In this case, you should remove the sump.
Replace the transmission filter and the two "O" rings and have a go at it again.
Or..
You may help the priming process by loosening a line in the system on the way to the transmission cooler to allow the fluid to flow for a split second to get the system to prime.
Take a look at Ashcroft
Ashcroft Transmissions - 4HP22 FAQ's have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why? The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox.
The transmission filter has a plastic pipe on the bottom of it which draws transmission oil out of the sump.
If you blew a line and a lot of your oil came out - you may just need to add enough fluid to the sump to get the pump to prime.
I would think the transmission pump should pull the transmission fluid UP from the sump and start circulating it.
Without the transmission pump pulling the fluid up - you don't have any
transmission fluid pressure in the valve body.
And, your torque convertor may not have enough fluid to transfer torque.
IF you can't get the transmission pump to pull up the fluid - your transmission filter may be clogged enough to stop the pump from self priming.
In this case, you should remove the sump.
Replace the transmission filter and the two "O" rings and have a go at it again.
Or..
You may help the priming process by loosening a line in the system on the way to the transmission cooler to allow the fluid to flow for a split second to get the system to prime.
Take a look at Ashcroft
Ashcroft Transmissions - 4HP22 FAQ's have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why? The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 25,707
Likes: 107
From: Denver, Colorado
First, grey goo is not normal, that is friction material/metal indicating wear.
If you were wise, and didn't want to shorten the life of the tranny or kill it, have a shop flush the system to get rid of any material in the system, fill it to it's exact level and hope it works.
If you were wise, and didn't want to shorten the life of the tranny or kill it, have a shop flush the system to get rid of any material in the system, fill it to it's exact level and hope it works.
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Looks like you are filling up the transmission sump pan and you are still not going into gear.
The transmission filter has a plastic pipe on the bottom of it which draws transmission oil out of the sump.
If you blew a line and a lot of your oil came out - you may just need to add enough fluid to the sump to get the pump to prime.
I would think the transmission pump should pull the transmission fluid UP from the sump and start circulating it.
Without the transmission pump pulling the fluid up - you don't have any
transmission fluid pressure in the valve body.
And, your torque convertor may not have enough fluid to transfer torque.
IF you can't get the transmission pump to pull up the fluid - your transmission filter may be clogged enough to stop the pump from self priming.
In this case, you should remove the sump.
Replace the transmission filter and the two "O" rings and have a go at it again.
Or..
You may help the priming process by loosening a line in the system on the way to the transmission cooler to allow the fluid to flow for a split second to get the system to prime.
Take a look at Ashcroft
Ashcroft Transmissions - 4HP22 FAQ's have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why? The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox.
The transmission filter has a plastic pipe on the bottom of it which draws transmission oil out of the sump.
If you blew a line and a lot of your oil came out - you may just need to add enough fluid to the sump to get the pump to prime.
I would think the transmission pump should pull the transmission fluid UP from the sump and start circulating it.
Without the transmission pump pulling the fluid up - you don't have any
transmission fluid pressure in the valve body.
And, your torque convertor may not have enough fluid to transfer torque.
IF you can't get the transmission pump to pull up the fluid - your transmission filter may be clogged enough to stop the pump from self priming.
In this case, you should remove the sump.
Replace the transmission filter and the two "O" rings and have a go at it again.
Or..
You may help the priming process by loosening a line in the system on the way to the transmission cooler to allow the fluid to flow for a split second to get the system to prime.
Take a look at Ashcroft
Ashcroft Transmissions - 4HP22 FAQ's have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why? The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into position before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox.
Well, I guess I'll give it another shot with a new filter and 'O' rings, try to fill in Neutral etc... but if it still won't take any fluid ; going to take it to a shop to have them to the flush as Mike recommends. I have my fingers crossed.
TReK
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 3,171
Likes: 45
Here is some CRITICAL advide:
1) Do not overtighten the pan bolts. They will snap off.
Just snug.
2) Critical to put transmission fluid in first - up to the bottom of the fill hole
before starting the engine.
3) Run the engine. Go thru all gears.
4) top the fluid up again (when COLD) to the top of the fill hole..
5) Rover does NOT advise what I suggested - putting in MORE fluid
when running in Neutral.
But, my opinion - more fluid in there will not HURT it. Better more then less.
less will HURT
it.
read the ashcroft stuff please.
1) Do not overtighten the pan bolts. They will snap off.
Just snug.
2) Critical to put transmission fluid in first - up to the bottom of the fill hole
before starting the engine.
3) Run the engine. Go thru all gears.
4) top the fluid up again (when COLD) to the top of the fill hole..
5) Rover does NOT advise what I suggested - putting in MORE fluid
when running in Neutral.
But, my opinion - more fluid in there will not HURT it. Better more then less.
less will HURT
it.read the ashcroft stuff please.
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Here is some CRITICAL advide:
1) Do not overtighten the pan bolts. They will snap off.
Just snug.
2) Critical to put transmission fluid in first - up to the bottom of the fill hole
before starting the engine.
3) Run the engine. Go thru all gears.
4) top the fluid up again (when COLD) to the top of the fill hole..
5) Rover does NOT advise what I suggested - putting in MORE fluid
when running in Neutral.
But, my opinion - more fluid in there will not HURT it. Better more then less.
less will HURT it.
read the ashcroft stuff please.
1) Do not overtighten the pan bolts. They will snap off.
Just snug.
2) Critical to put transmission fluid in first - up to the bottom of the fill hole
before starting the engine.
3) Run the engine. Go thru all gears.
4) top the fluid up again (when COLD) to the top of the fill hole..
5) Rover does NOT advise what I suggested - putting in MORE fluid
when running in Neutral.
But, my opinion - more fluid in there will not HURT it. Better more then less.
less will HURT
it.read the ashcroft stuff please.
Got it. Thanks mate. I'll give this one more whirl, and disconnect the cooler line as suggested in your last post as well, to drain that part too. I hate transmission related stuff, so if it doesn't want to pull any more fluid into the system, i'll get it towed to do the power flush thing as Mike suggests ; and then call it. I'm really hoping the tranny isn't toast. That would suck.
2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Memphis
Draining from the filler hole?
Wife states that her 2002 Disco with 118k on the odometer stalled when coming to a stop light. Restarted the engine, but later the truck felt like the transmission was slipping.
Once the truck was cool I crawled under to check the tranny fluid level, anticipating the trans level was low. Loosened the filler screw, and to my surprise almost a quart of ATF came pouring out of the filler hole.
Now what? Reluctant to start the engine. Thank for any advice.
Once the truck was cool I crawled under to check the tranny fluid level, anticipating the trans level was low. Loosened the filler screw, and to my surprise almost a quart of ATF came pouring out of the filler hole.
Now what? Reluctant to start the engine. Thank for any advice.
Last edited by Posey Hedges; Sep 21, 2014 at 04:21 PM.