Just picked up the above 99' ride and am going through the list of "major
to do's" as posted in the sticky's and Rave manual.
First of all thank you to everyone who has spent the time posting all of this great info. I have owned dozens of foreign vehicles and this is probably the best and most organized site I have been on!!!
Did both differentials and replaced the ghetto plastic plugs with brass. (well what was left of them anyways) . No shavings and the oil seemed like it had been changed recently, Not to grey or runny. Probed both differentials with a magnet stick and didn't pick up anything. There is a leak from the rear though and it seems to be coming from the main seal
The transfer case i had to soak with pb blaster for a couple of days and then was able to gently tap a 5" 1/2 drive extension into the hole. I literally had to put so much pressure on the torque ratchet the car was shaking. Finally the damn thing came out. I Don't think it has been done in forever as it looked like there have been several efforts to get it out without success. ( the inside female plug was mangled in all directions). The drain plug came out quite easy so I'm wondering if the last doomazzz drained it first and then couldn't get the fill plug out? There was literally about a half liter max that came out! It was black and nasty . Both magnets only revealed a very small amount of metal shavings and two tiny chunks (about the size of a common pin head or smaller). I read everything over and over and did not see anything about temperature of the box when draining so I'm wondering if I missed something and it should have been hot and that is why it appears empty?
Thanks for any replies, Great Forum!

 

The transfer case takes 2.4 quarts and the diffs take 1.8 quarts i use the heavier 85W/140 gear oil to help with wear and tear it should get you a little longer life out of your t case and diffs. Now as for what the last doomazzz did to maintain your truck is beyond me. Hopefully some service records came with it to show, otherwise you can expect that doomazzz got in turned the key put it in gear and drove it and thats all. " most likely " good idea to go with the new plugs. I would consider working the new fluid around the t-case and repeating the process to make sure there is no larger chunks that were logged anywhere in side.

Good luck and it sounds like you are on the right track to bringing some much needed maintenance up to date.

 

The transfer case fluid level is slightly worrisome however finding a few small metal shavings is normal. I'd definitely go with the 85W/140 though just to be sure, also when driving in high range is there any noticeable whine?

 

Thanks for the replies! There is a light whine but I'm thinking it's the power steering pump that needs the "service" as well. It started when I put new tires on it; probably due to the stress of the new tread. When you turn the wheel it is slightly louder while sitting at idle but we are talking "hardly noticeable" level at this point and there is plenty of turbulence in the reservoir. I do not hear much of anything while in "Drive"....
The first weekend I had it I drove up to the foothills on 1-70 from Denver to Evergreen. It's a steep several mile climb at highway speeds. It was 104 that day and I had the A/C on. Not smart since I had done nothing to the car yet. It did bog a little so I put it in "sport" mode and the "gearbox is overheating" light came on. I immediately pulled over and opened the hood to let i cool down. After about ten minutes it went away and the Rover ran great the rest of the way up and back. Guess I got lucky driving it around with no fluid and I guess the sensor is working correctly!

 

Also look in to a ultra guage bc the temp sensor on the dash is worthless. It stays in the middle until its to late usually and then climbs very fast. Sounds like you will be changing the power steering fluid soon so hopefully the whine will go away then, do you know if your front driveshaft has been rebuilt or is original? If original i would park it until you get a new one.

 

Helpful hint on getting the fill plug out of the transfer case, I used to struggle with this when I worked at the dealership until I tried a 1/2" wobble extension, it clears the brake drum because it can be put in at a 15 degree angle. Much easier than any other method I've tried (I've linked to a picture of the Snap on model but everyone makes these including Harbor Freight, don't know about the quality of the others though) SXWP5, Extension, Wobble Plus, 5"

 

Thanks Guys, yes I have found the wobble drives invaluable when working on cars. I discovered them a few years ago and bought several different lengths in both 3/8 and 1/2 .
Yes I agree on the temp sensor since the last owner had to put in a new
( well new to car - it was a used 2000 with 100 k) engine due to the fact he ran the coolant down to nothing and cracked the block. Engine sounds great and looks fairly clean. Pretty much the only reason I even bought it. I wished I had looked it over better but I had looked at 7 others ( both range and land) as a "fixer upper" for my last teen driver and immediately wanted to buy it. The others I looked at in the 2 to 3 k price range where POS's. smashed up , banged up , filthy , leaking like sieves , drove like crap etc....
This one drove smooth, interior like new, no dash lights on , everything worked other than the rear window, had no bumper cover (which I have to deal with and am pissed they are $750) , needs a new key cut as he claims LR cut it wrong and it has to be backtracked a smidgen to work, drivers door actuator is not working so lots of fun trying to lock it and get back in, the tires were also ****. I looked them over when they changed them out. Holes, nails, patches, dry-rot u name it. Found some on craigslist with rims from a guy who just did the whole lift kit and went with the biggies. Got 5 Like new Eagle Wrangler M & S 's for $200. Put in a new windshield - $208 so now have a little under 3k in it. Probably paid a little too much but said he wouldn't budge off of 3k due to the engine work. He called back after I walked and I told him I would give him $2500 cash that night if he wanted to sell it. I was tired of looking at all the crap out there and decided at least this one had potential.
** oh and yes the front half axle was put in new when they did the used engine as it has the 3 Nips. I made sure to check that out before I bought it.
Just re-greased all of the fittings last week.

 

I can get you any part you need pretty cheap just send me a list and what you can afford to pay for each part i will try to deal with you on parts just dont offer me something stupid like 5 bucks for a headlight or something. I will work with you i know none of us are retarded rich.

 

well after filling the transfer case and going for a short drive i parked it in the garage.
came out later to find a nice puddle of fluid on the ground so now I know where all the previous gear oil went. What seals are involved? I see the access cover and there is fluid on the bottom of the bolts but is there another gasket that can leak?
Is there an actual gasket for the access cover or just make one out of gasket goop?
thanks!

 

oh and I did see the write up for the D1 but now sure if there is a crossmember on the d1 as there is on the d2 and if that needs to come out which is no big deal.