First post here. Searched, but couldn't find anything specific as I think I may have a couple of issues.

I have an '01 Discovery II with 138,000. It's been serviced well, but recently, since about September, I haven't had the opportunity to drive it more than for short trips, less than twenty miles each, about three times a week.

This morning it started, but with effort and the check engine light was on. I made my short trip, came back and read the codes and got P1170 & P0137. When I went to turn the car back on to make sure the check engine light had gone off, the car wouldn't start. Jumped it and that worked until I would idle and it would die.

Could this be a vacuum issue? I know the codes are for O2 sensors, but that doesn't mean the sensors are bad, just that they are sensing it running lean.

I'm taking it in on Monday, but I'm curious if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks.

 

Bank 1 sensor 1 is causing the 1170. Best start by order 4 new 02's because of your mileage.
As for the start problem, sure you don't have a failing battery/alternator.
You need to get the running voltage checked, most parts store do it for free, voltage should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts.
Let us know what you find.

 

Thanks for the information.

Should I just go ahead and order the O2s even though we aren't positive that's what it is?

My assumption is that it's not just a battery because we could get it going and take the jump box off of it. However, it could very easily be an alternator. Any idea in regard to price for alternator installed at an independent mechanic?

Thanks.

 

IF you replace the O2's you only need to replace the fronts, the rears do nothing other than monitor your catalytic converters and will give a check engine light when they stop working.
The fronts control engine fueling, the rears do not.
I dont know how cold it is where you live but the truck requires lots of electricity to run properly, low battery voltage and it will not only not start it can throw codes too.
As for the alternator replacement, its pretty easy.
You can do it yourself for about $200, a shop is going to charge you no less than $600 because they are going to buy a brand new OEM alt and that alone is $500.

Alternator | Land Rover Electrical Parts, Batteries, Relays, Lamps & More

Alternator Discovery II Reman | Land Rover Electrical Parts, Batteries, Relays, Lamps & More

Advance Auto sells brand new Bosch alt's for about $300 last time I looked.
But have your system tested first, I am betting the short trips in cold weather are your problem though.
Thats the problem I have with my wifes Volvo, she drives it about 6 miles a day total, I have to charge the battery every 2 weeks or we have to drive it for 45 mins to keep the battery full.
During the summer not a problem, during the winter it is, just food for thought.

 

Thanks for all the information.

I am in Memphis, so while it's not that cold relative to other areas, the car has been in Alabama for about 90% of its life, and it is relatively cold today. Maybe combining the short trips with the cold weather just got it.

It's going in on Monday. I've been lucky to have a really good independent mechanic in Birmingham, but I moved to Memphis about three months ago, and this is the first time I'm going to this one. We'll see how it goes with the diagnosis and I'll report back.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

yea take it over to a local advance auto or autozone or the like, most places do free battery/starter/alternator testing. you could use a voltmeter but that isnt nearly as accurate as a "cheese grater" or full start/charging system tester as they can put a load on the system, and measure the draw from the starter, as well as different outputs at idle, at speed, and with large draw (headlights, radios, fans etc)

i believe mike was just stating that you should probably replace the o2's soon anyway, not that they have to do with your immediate starting problem, but from the high miliage.

ps. at that miliage also, reguardless of any lack of symptoms, i would seriously consider a weekly check on the coolant and oil levels to check for head gasket problems, and double recommend looking at the drive shaft joints in particular if these issues havent already been addressed.

 

Update:
I didn't have time for it to be towed and I was running by an Autozone, so I took the battery with me and had it tested. It was dead, so I replaced it with a Duralast Gold that had been recommended on here. I installed the new battery and the car cranks now but still will not start.

I plugged in the code reader to see if I would get anything and I got two new ones: P0102 & P1884. After some research, it appears that I will be replacing my mass airflow sensor. However, I didn't see anywhere that this would be related to an engine not starting. Any ideas?

Also, how difficult or easy is it to clean or replace one of these? I'm not too well versed in automotive repair, but I have no problem trying to do this by myself if at all possible.

Thanks.

 

Could be dirty or restricted air cleaner, could clean MAF sensor when COLD, with CRC or other spray made for MAF sensors. 1884 is a message that can have many meanings. May go away with 0102 resolved.

 

you could run without a maf on fire... problems elsewhere. you could attempt to clean the maf but if its dead, its usually gone for good. they are very very very easy to replace, all you need is a screw driver. but i doubt it would prevent you from starting it up. if you know anyone with a disco you could try swapping with his maf to see if it will start with his, but ive never seen a car NOT start without one.

you can pop your airfilter off but i dont think a dirty filter would prevent a start unless you have a good amount of debris in the box, but you could also see that very apparently, and just start the car with the airbox removed, just be sure NOTHING will get sucked in, and certainly dont drive it like that.

if you know how you could rent a fuel pressure guage and check at the rear of the motor and make sure you are getting fuel from the pump.

but id start with the plugs/wires/coil if the starter is spinning the motor without a kickover.

they sell maf cleaner in spray but its pretty much dilluted electrical parts cleaner or carb cleaner. while cold, you could spray INDIRECTLY at the metal coil/wire comming down the center of the maf and use VERY LIGHT compressed air from a keyboard cleaner type can to dry it off quick. double check the maf harness where it plugs in too, might be lose/dirty.

to remove the maf you would unclip the airbox cover (while you are there check the filter and under it for obstructions and age of the filter)... then unplug the maf harness, then loosen the hose clamp that secures it and slowly wiggle it off. replace just the oposite, but replace the rubber o ring thats between the airbox and maf if it its dry, cracked etc. think it comes with the new maf. get an OEM maf, there is a high failure rate according to the forum feadback for generic versions. british atlantic and lucky8 have good prices/stock.

 

Update 2:

Took it into the shop. Of course, it started right up for the mechanic, so he couldn't find any issues with the starting, but he did figure out a few things:

MAF is bad. Air filter box cover is cracked and needs replacing. New air filter as well.

Quote for labor and parts was $750. It sounded reasonable to me, but someone parting out a DII offered me the MAF for $50 and I understand it is a pretty easy fix. I'll be happy to replace the MAF myself, but I'm worried about using a used one. Also, I need instructions on how to do it. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks.