Yesterday while my wife and I were out shopping we returned to the disco and it wouldn't start. The starter was cranking fine and it seemed to me like an air or fuel problem. I popped the hood and after checking around and trying a few simple things, I found a broken hose connection (Fig. 1). After duct taping it in place it started perfectly fine. The engine also had sufficient time to completely cool off. I thought the problem was fixed and then while out in it again today, it did the same thing. Once again, the engine was hot and the starter was fine. I popped the hood again to try to figure out what it could be and noticed what I think is a small vacuum hose (Fig. 2) was disconnected. I reconnected it and after a few attempts, it started and ran with no problem. This time the engine had also cooled off considerably. Once I got it home, I put a new hose clamp on the small vacuum hose to prevent it from coming off again and when I tried to start it, it did the same thing as before and wouldn't start. I gave it time to cool off, checked and secured all the hose connections and then it started. I decided to take it for a quick test drive through town and for the first time, it died while running and has yet to start again. From what I've been able to find on here so far, I'm led to believe it's most likely the crank position sensor. Any info or insight would be greatly appreciated.

The check engine light is on but I haven't gotten my hands on a scanner yet.

A little background info: We live in Germany and the weather is usually around 60F. This week has been unusually warm (80+) and yesterday was the first time we had driven the rover all week.

 

Update: I just went to get it after sitting for about 4 hours and it started first try.

 

Symptoms match likely crank position sensor. CEL due to other causes (brken vacuum lines, etc.) Just changed my cps today for similar problem.

 

The CKP sensor, when it fails, has no backup data plan. As a result, no sparks. When block cools down, sensor restores. Can be tested by spare plug attached to spark plug wire and lay on manifold, check for sparks when cranking. Can pour cold water on sensor or blow with compressed air to speed up cool down.

When you take sensor off, make precise notes. Many people put it back wrong and spacing is off, truck won't crank at all. Will need a pair of very long nose pliers and an assiatant working from above.

 

Thanks for the help. I went ahead and ordered the new sensor as soon as I started the thread but I just wanted a second opinion. As for the reference above, I watched the youtube video on the sensor replacement and the only spacing reference was just a spacer that goes on before the nut. How else would spacing be done?

 

Some put spacer between sensor and block, which is wrong. The tip of the sensor rides inside a groove in the reluctor disk and those 60 close spots make the voltage pulses as they fly by just a millimeter or two away. Too far, and no signal.

One lad, angry with the problems, took a big swig of Red Bull and threw the parts into the woods. Had to buy more.

 

Oh I see. I have the workshop manual and was just going to follow along in that. I'm usually good at putting things back how I found them but I do like Red Bull

 

Red Bull definitely gave those parts Wings!