Digging a little deeper on the mister set-up. It appears to be used successfully in the RV / Trucking crowd. Since I see my D2 being a mechanically miniature "RV" this might work for us! I have a patio mister I will test on the radiator this weekend.

From the google -
class C Dodge with the 440-1 in it and, during the summer runs from the San Diego area to the Colorado river, towing a boat, that darn 440 would always climb in temps. Of course, it didn't help that I was driving in 105 degree heat about 95% of the time. That's the reason we went to the river right?

Anyway, I got tired of it getting hot and worrying so, I built that system you're talking about. I used a steel brake line, about 3/16" in diameter and drilled about 20, 1/16" holes in it for full length, across the top of the radiator. I mounted that tube, about an inch away from the top tank of the radiator. I sealed the end with brazing.

Then, I plumbed it into another 12V RV water pump and tee-d off of the water supply from the main water tank. Now, when that temp would start climbing on that temp gauge, to say, around 220, I'd simply push a momentary button on the dash, and spray the top tank. I'd do this for a count of about 5-8 seconds. Then, I'd let it run for about 10 seconds and do it again. You should have seen that temp gauge drop down to 180. It would then take around 5 or 6 miles to climb back up to 220 again. Then, I'd start the process all over again.

 

So I installed one of the 4 row Chinese radiators- the one you can buy from 40 different eBay sellers with different names but it’s all the same picture and radiator

so the good - I did that install and changed out my fan to the Hayden Severe duty clutch and Dorman fan. Also installed new belt although my old one wasn’t bad but since I had it apart…

was going to install FlowKooler water pump also but evidently they are a couple of weeks out on back orders

after those changes- went for a quick drive at highway speeds and never got above 192 with AC on at 65-70 mph - although it was only about 90f today due to cloud cover

and I let it idle in my driveway for 10 mins with AC on at only got to 203f for the highest

those are amazing differences

the bad - basically nothing about that Chinese radiator fits…the feet are fine but nothing else. It’s a good 1.5 inches shorter width wise so the trans cooler doesn’t mount directly, the plastics mounts on the sides don’t work stock, the fan shroud doesn’t fit

plus it doesn’t have the correct holes for the fan shroud or side mounts anyway

and it has two extra tubes at the bottom but neither is a threaded bung for SAI temp gauge and you would have to weld an aluminum petcock if you wanted to make the other a drain

i “fab’d” up some mounts to get the rad installed and trans cooler attached

Used some heater hose and reducers to attach SAI gauge and plug the other tube but when I get confident this thing really makes the difference (changed 2 things at once - always hate that) then I will take it to a radiator shop and get them to remove the “drain” tube completely and weld in a 1/4” aluminum bung I got for it

 

Has anyone seen those tri flow radiators? They have baffles in the end tanks to force coolant to flow back and forth three times through the radiator, too bad the disco 2 radiator is so specific, harder to bolt in a aftermarket one.

 

Yes, they are called triple-pass radiators - I queried FlowKooler (makers of the hi-flow water pump) and they state triple-pass restricts flow, so the stock pump may be inadequate. FlowKooler states their pumps provide 42 Gallons per Minute (GPM) (LINK). I have considered a BMW CWA-400 electric water pump with electronic controller (LINK) in the future.

My rebuilt, top-hat liner engine with 15K had a new Nissens radiator, FlowKooler water pump, in-line 160F stat, a second manually-controlled fan in front of AC condensor, my fan clutch drilled-through with a bolt so it was permanently on and still had high temps with HVAC use. If I went without AC it didn't get above 200F. I ended up installing the Ford Fusion dual electric fan setup with a used cruise-control button to manually control the fan relay. I can now sit in stop-and-go traffic in 90F / 70+% humidity temps and not go over 190F. I have a GlowShift water temperature gauge (had to epoxy temperature probe bc it fell out) and use an OBD2 app to monitor water temperatures vigilantly. I turn on the fans once I reach 175F. I don't turn them off until right before shutting off the engine. I've been using the stock 120A alternator without issue, but bought a used 150A Range Rover alternator in case.

I improved the low-speed/stop-and-go high temp issue with HVAC on. I fabricated a new front bumper and experienced 210F at 85F after a 10 minute high-gradient climb. After arriving at my destination, and parking with fans on, I was able to cool quickly down to 175F. I experienced higher temps at 35+MPH, so I believe I have an air-flow issue that wil be remedied with pass-through flaps made from 2-3mm rubber sheeting on the Ford Fusion shroud.

I was driving around with just the stock metal bumper support (that lives behind the plastic bumper) after a fender-bender and along with the new front bumper, I made Version 2 of a Saudi/Safari grille with Home Depot rain gutter mesh (like Tim/Extinct). I left a space between the frame rails to mount the relocated automatic transmission cooler with 8-AN hose to a Derale Stacked Plate Cooler rated to 250PSI and GlowShift transmission temperature gauge. This will then enable me to install a THICKER aluminum radiator custom fabricated for about $250 locally with SAI bung included. I'll hack up the Ford Fusion dual fans and mount them to a custom metal fan shroud at that time (similar to the DERALE setups available).


Saudi V2

 

I want to give a HUGE SHOUT-OUT to Tim at Extinct Motorsports, a couple months ago he helped me out with some codes I was getting that I mistakenly attributed to my always-ON fan clutch and 160F in-line thermostat. It ended up being a dirty MAF plug as he suggested! He also helped me find a NANOCOM locally in South America. I would have 100% purchased his upcoming dual electric fan kit had I been able to wait until his rigorous product testing was completed.

I would recommend Extinct products whole-heartedly to anyone after experiencing his enthusiasm and generosity with his knowledge in this community. If he goes above-and-beyond for people who aren't even clients, I can't imagine his customer service for those purchasing his products!

For a custom aluminum radiator - does anyone recommend a classic radiator cap on the radiator and buying a generic $30 Amazon aluminum TIG-welded overflow tank? I would ditch the current plastic expansion tank that can be prone to leaking, eliminate the tank return hose, and burp the system through the old-school radiator cap. I am doing exactly what Tim is suggesting in this post with electric fan, trans cooler relocation, and thicker all-aluminum radiator. I plan to do this next week after relocating the transmission cooler.

 

I’ve seen those allisport knock off over flow reservoirs and I decided against it because they have a small sight glass. I don’t see how you’d be able to tell how low coolant was without opening it.

but I’d love to hear a review if you do buy one

 

I'm considering one that has an external tube sight-glass with quick-connect fittings, available in 1 or 2L capacity. The hundreds of reviews show the quick-connect threaded fittings leak from the factory, but with a little gas/oil telfon tape all is remedied. Although the Cars4x4 & Allisport expansion tanks are works of art, their cost is equivalent to my entire budget for the custom radiator. I might just keep the stock factory tank, but I'm trying to simplify the cooling system.


Available in 1 or 2L capacity

 

Thanks for all of this info. Ordered in line thermostat for my original owner 2004 Disco 2.