for what it's worth:

My truck leaked big time passenger side right around the windshield upper area and the "Holy ****" handle. One day...for the hell of it, I filled the front area of my roof gutters with silicone on both sides. There where some cracks. Since then I haven't had any leaks in the truck.
It fixed the leak on the passenger side and it also fixed the leak I had in the back at the bottom of the storage bins (3rd row seats).

 

Ok .... after I put the new rad in it it overheated on the way to work. I was mega upset. I was thinking that they messed something up or the new stat was bad. Turns out they never burped it properly. So as i am trying to get it sorted out, the damn plastic plug in the upper hose breaks. As I am trying to chase it out the insert pops out inside the hose. I take a few deep breaths and disconnect the upper hos from the "T" fitting. I rescue the insert and using a lot of patience i get it back in. A M6 bolt replaces the plastic bit and now it is working-ish again. The main problem is the head gasket and holding out for warmer weather to change it. A few questions: How hard is it to get the block to release its grip of the exhaust manifolds? I noticed the fantastic engineering that uses 12 point bolts on a hot system and figured it would be a problem. The second question is, any experience good or bad with head gasket repair (goop in a can you put in the cooling system) I know the best way to fix it is to fix it, but until I get the time / weather it is not in the cards. Running the truck pressurises the system to the point it is leaking at the cap.

 

It doesn't sound like a good idea to fill your brand new radiator and brand old heater core with metallic gunk in a can to me.

Time to stop driving her until you get the HG's done.

Other damage to your wallet can occur if you continue running the engine.

 

Okay,

Updates as promised, decided to bite the bullet and I am sending the beast to a land rover specialist. Damn fair price to machine a new set of heads and install the head gaskets. Not that I don't trust that I could do them but this guy had done many Disco headgaskets and it is worth my money to not have to spend the time doing it, For some strange reason (I was bashing on the button repeatedly) the sport mode switch sorted itself out. I will post and let you all know what happens when my guy pulls the heads of the Disco of Woe.

Ps ... I resisted the urge to crap up my new rad with liquid goo in a bottle.

 

I said I would update and here it is. New gaskets in, new upper hose. new tank and cap and still get a whif of coolant every once in a while. it seems to be holding coolant but I check every day. (sounds like it may still be leaking from the cap when hot??!!??)

Now the wallet drainer demands new brakes after a rear pad crapped out mid drive and rewarded me with a nice metal on metal grind. New rotors and pads going on tomorrow.

Phantom rear window problem, when it is cool the window works when it is warm it does not. Solved the sport mode switch by jabbing the button really really hard.

I guess these things are like Jeeps, you just have to love them!!!!

 

There certainly is a commitment required when you own a Land Rover.

 

Ok facts.
450 Km the expansion tank comes up 1" low
head gaskets just replaced
all plastic lines replaced
upper hose replaced
thermo replaced
rad replaced
Father in Law told me water pump replaced 2 yrs ago
tank and cap replaced
viscuous coupling replaced

no white from the exhaust, no puddles, evidence of leaking around tank cap (over pressure???) drips from overflow line, upper hoses stiff but compressible when hot. faint coolant smell intermittently. No other obvious signs of leak.

I have considered having a rad shop pressure test the system
also considered lighting car on fire out of frustration

Experience with replacing the EVAP solenoid with the Hyundai part (bosch) would also be appreciated. I did spy a used engine for $900 and I am seriously considering buying to rebuild. Does anyone make a rebuild kit? (caps, rings, gaskets, mains etc??)

<there is no emoticon for what I am feeling>

 

My truck always regulates itself at 1" below the full line on the expansion tank. If I fill it up, it burps it back out. I've read others have the same issue.

I've pressure tested, replaced the rad cap, checked for leaks, and bled the system repeatedly. Nothing affects it.

I just watch it and keep driving. I just took a 2000 mile road trip and didn't add a drop of coolant - it just sat an inch low the whole time.

 

Same situation for me. I actually marked a new line for "normal" on the tank.

 

have considered having a rad shop pressure test the system