So I had the transmission tunnel on my '99 open to remove the transfer case interlock solenoid, and I figured I would enable my CDL while I was down there. Unfortunately, CDL shifters are about $300, and the material I could find online for a DIY electronically actuated shifter was rather inadequate, so I figured I would share my experience with you so you can save yourself the hassle. I'm really hoping these pictures resize themselves, but my apologies in advance for the giant photos if they don't.

The Parts List

1 length 1.5"x1.5"x1/8" steel angle iron. You'll need at least 13 inches to be safe.
1 length 1.25"x1.8" steel flat bar.
1 5/16 x 1 inch bolts
1 5/16 x 2 inch bolt
1 M8 nylock nut
1 M16 crush washer
3 5/16" nylock nuts
1 DPDT “on/on” switch
1 Linear Actuator, 2 inch stroke. I used this one because it's supposed to be IP65 rated (suitable for outdoor use):
1 Set linear actuator brackets:
The Procedure:

Some notes on the operation of the CDL spigot: There are two positions on the spigot. The CDL is engaged when the spigot is turned fully clockwise, and is disengaged when turned about 40 degrees counterclockwise. If the spigot is turned further counterclockwise, it will come out of the detent, but nothing will happen, so your goal is to ensure that the CDL locks exactly when the actuator has reached its full extension.





Take a section approximately 3" long of the flat bar and make the arm for your spigot. The aperture for the spigot will be 10mm wide and 15 mm long, and should be at an approximately 45 degree angle so it lies perpendicular to the transmission when the CDL is engaged. I made this by drilling two 3/8" holes essentially on top of each other and then filing the hole to fit, but I'm sure there are better ways. The distance, center-to-center, of the two holes on this piece, should be 2.5". Trim the side the actuator will attach to so it doesn't bind as it rotates. Stick the 2" bolt through the hole (5/16") and secure it firmly with a nylock nut.






Your next task is to create the bracket that will secure the other end of the actuator to the transfer case. Using 13" of angle iron, drill two 3/8" holes. These will fit the two bolts securing the CDL spigot next to the transmission. Center to center, these holes should be 55mm apart. You will also have to cut a triangle so this piece does not impinge on the spigot itself. Make sure you mess up the first cut so it looks extra crappy.





Because of slop and measurement variations, the hole securing the linear actuator mounting bracket to the piece of angle iron will be placed based on the location of the components with everything test fit. Attach one of the mounting brackets to the side of the linear actuator that doesn't move. Fit all of the brackets and tighten; the bolts on the CDL spigot take some force to loosen, but don't yank or you'll snap them. The arm on the spigot is secured with an m8 nylock nut. Because the flat bar is slightly thinner than it should be, I placed an M16 crush washer underneath it to make sure it didn't wiggle up and down. Fit the actuator (FULLY EXTENDED) onto the arm (IN CDL LOCKED POSITION). Use an awl to outline where the mounting bracket contacts the angle iron; I aimed for as far up on the angle iron as possible so it didn't bind as it rotated. Remove the angle iron and the actuator and drill your last hole, then mount the actuator to the angle iron with the 1" bolt (I don't have a picture for this, but put it so the head of the bolt is facing the transmission). Tighten with another nylock nut.


Put everything back onto the transfer case and tighten all the bolts down. Put your final nylock nut on the end of the 2" bolt so the actuator doesn't come off the arm. Tighten only until the nylon starts to engage; you want this end to slide fairly freely so nothing binds.




I used a DPDT with no middle position because the actuator has built-in limit switches that will cut off current when the actuator is fully extended or retracted. Since you don't want your actuator to stop in the middle, this is ideal. The actuator will extend when the red wire is attached to 12V, and vice versa for retracting. I used a safety cover wired such that the CDL would be unlocked when the cover is down. Supply voltage was provided by splicing into the cigarette lighter.



I mounted the switch where the buttons for the heated seats would be, if I had heated seats.



Make sure you make fighter pilot noises whenever you flip the switch. Total cost: about $80.



FINAL NOTE: As you can see from the last picture, in a 99-02 model, if you turn the car on while CDL is engaged, the BCU will turn off traction control and ABS. You can get around this by cutting a wire on the BCU, but then the CDL light will never come on. The easiest way to prevent this is to simply ensure that you turn off CDL before you turn off the car.

 

Bravo man. Nicely done.

 

Or just pickup an 03-04 SLABS Unit with the latest TC/ABS firmware that is fully CDL compatible. Last few I picked up only cost me $20.00. When I added CDL to both my 99 & 02 I just installed the newer SLABS Units and it works identical to an 04 D2.

Nice write up btw

 

Is it a plug&play&forget? I picked up one but haven't installed it yet.

 

I just installed 04 linkage that I picked up on eBay for $137. Only casualty of the install were the console tabs that the window switch screws into. Well there were only 2 left anyway. Still trying to dream up a fox for that.

Nice job on your install.

 

My only concern is that actuator. The locking mechanism just needs to be turn 1/4 turn at best. Is that actuator going to put force on the locking mechanism maybe to much.

 

yep. plugs right in and you don't have to do anything else.

the abs control is different from the early years so you may notice some chimes when you start up that didn't used to happen, and apparently the error detection system is a little more sensitive in the later slabs modules -- my original '99 slabs held a stored code for a flaky wheel sensor but when i put an '04 slabs in the error would light the brake warning on the dash.

 

Yep 03-04 SLABS is plug n play with one exception, which is just make sure you get one off of say an SLS equipped D2 if your D2 is SLS equipped. Or if it doesn’t have SLS make sure to grab it off a non SLS D2. It’s just a 5sec setting to switch with say a Nanocom, but if you don’t have one you would have to have the SLABS Unit programed for the configuration you have.

 

In order to fully unlock the CDL, you only need to turn the mechanism about 40 degrees. If you turn it further than that, it will come out of the detent on the pin, but nothing further will happen, which gives you a lot of wiggle room to work with. The key is that when the actuator is fully extended, it has to be right at the point where the CDL locks, because there's no wiggle room beyond that, so you need to fit everything with that configuration in mind. Based on the rough calculations I did, my actuator will rotate about 50 degrees, which is more than enough.

I have no tabs as well. The panel the switches mount on has a small lip around the outside. There's enough overlap between the panel and the center console on the top and bottom that you can drill a SMALL hole at an angle through both and secure it with screws. It's probably not durable, but it'll keep it secure.

 

I wish there were pics of the assembly before it was installed. Looking at the actuator and bracket on Amazon I figured out how it was fitted, but the actuator and its attachment to the lever are hidden in the photos. Great job.