Actually there's an online uploaded version of it that I found a few months back before I cracked my engine apart. I can't remember for the life of me where I found it, but I'm 99% sure it was one of the defender forums.

In hindsight the RAVE manual pretty much walks you through the process step by step and it's not as hard as you imagine, just a little time consuming and be prepared to make a huge mess in your garage with engine parts. Most basic automotive tools will do the trick, I did have to make a larger wrench for the viscous fan (just took an old smaller wrench I got at a tag sale and grinded it out a little larger to fit), picked up a 9mm hex bit for the egr tubes coming off the heads and a 12 point socket for the header nuts.

 

Still working on the rough idling issue but as far as the ticking is concerned I think it be the consequence of me doing the engine flush this past weekend. Before the flush my engine was nice and quite and has been quite for months now. So I think that the flush may have cleaned up alot of built up oil and crude inside the engine, crude that may very well have been dampening the ticking in the first place. Now that its all cleaned up my ticking is back in full swing regardless of engine temperature. I also wonder if the engine oil Im using is perhaps to thin and is a factor in the engine ticking? I have read a couple threads on here over the years and a small few claim that using Shell Rotella 15w-40 made their engine tick really loud, their solution was to switch to another oil. So im curious what you guys think about that. Im also considering switching to Castrol high mileage. I guess these trucks came with Castrol from the factory anyways.

Another question I have, how does the engine oil thickness work? I assumed that oils like 5w-30 were considerably thinner than say 15w-40. Is this true or is it the other way around? The climate and elevation in Alaska is probably very different than NH, that said what oil is the best choice for me to use during my 4,500 trek to Alaska? and which oil should i use thereafter?

 

the oil numbers are not a 100% weight designation.
you can get a thicker 5w20 or a thinner 5w20.
viscosity .
15w40 has a "w" winter cold quality of 15, at operating temp 40 quality at warm.
lighter/thinner is good for cold weather/ start up ......the lesser #
thicker/heavier is good for warm operating temp......higher #



I think mobil has a 0w40

 

This is the best Bosch DIY you will find.

A few little things are different cause its a P38, but its still great.

Engine Refresh (top end) | PaulP38A.com

 

Makes it even more confusing. What do you think about the oil im using or the oil I should be using in regards to the engine ticking? Like I said before it was gone for several months ever since i replaced the thermostat. Only after doing an engine flush does the ticking come back.

Thanks Pinky for the link, ill look into it.

 

a higher # can help muffle a little noise
5w30 is "thinner" than 15w40.....you would just be comparing the last # 30<40
of the 2, 15w40 would give the best chance of noise reduction


20w50 would be a muffler, but without the cold protection. imo, cold protection/lubrication is more important.