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Do I need to change oil after white shephered?

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Old 02-28-2012, 02:25 PM
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Default Do I need to change oil after white shephered?

I had a rear main leak and also some leaking from either fron crank seal or the sensor in any case I put a bottle of White shephered stop oil leak and drove it for some time, and than mike suggested the specific rear main leak from white shephered so I also poured a bottle of that in there and the engine now seems to be pretty dry.

After I put the White shephered rear main leak seal and drove it for about an hour, when stopped I noted some very fainted grinding, I thought it was comming from the transfer case (BTW I also poured half a bottle of white shephered stop oil leak in the transfer case too), and the noise went away.

Yesterday again I heared the grinding noise and it is actually comming from the engine and it was getting a little worse when giving gas. It was sounding as if it was some where near the front driverside valve cover. It goes away at high RPM and it is not there all the time.

I read another thread, where it was suggested to flush the power steering fluid after white shephered power steering fluid has been used.

Now the bottle does not say anything about draining engine oil after use and I was wondering if I should change the oil. I have rotella 5-40 fully synthetic oil with less than 1000 miles in there.
 
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:06 PM
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The White Shepherd can be left in the oil until next scheduled drain. It is most likely not the source of your noise.

If noise happens at idle you can use a mechanic's stethoscope (or just a stick) to listen to the valve cover, power steering pump, alternator, etc. to track down the noise.
 
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:49 PM
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If you put in 2 bottles of the stop leak you may have clogged the oil passages to vital parts of the engine, you are only supposed to use one bottle.
 
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Old 02-28-2012, 09:19 PM
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Oops, my bad, did not see that second bottle. But - the product is a clear liquid, so it works by making the "rubber" parts swell slightly. It does not have "extra fairy dust" like radiator stop leeksz. I would think if it was clogging up oil passages you would not hear grinding (slow moving metal on metal), you would hear clattering and ticking from valve train starved for oil, lifters, etc. Here's a pix of two O-rings, one soaked in the product for two days. Once it swells, replacing oil won't have much impact. It does solvent some varnish off, but it would have to remove a lot of gunk to block the oil pickup screen. Spike is probably right, if you are going to use it, buy the rear main seal product which is designed for even thicker material.
 
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:51 AM
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first I put the stop oil leak, and than a bottle of rear main leak.

Rear main leak has stopped, but it has only been one week sofar.

The grinding noise is intermittent. You wont believe it but first time I heard it in front of autozone, second time in front of advance auto parts and today again on my way to and in front of advance auto parts.

You know now where I am spending my time.

When I got home and tried to locate it with sthetoscope, there was no grinding.

The first time was after I added the rear main stop leak and drove the car for around 90 minutes, I stopped by autozone when started the car back on I heard the grinding.
The second time I drove to pick up some grociaries (1-2mile drive) car stopped for may be 20-30 minutes, started and went to advance auto 5 minutes away, in the parking lot I noticed the grinding.
And today after work on my way to adavnce and it continued when I got there but than after 30 minute drive home there was nothing.

Also got the oil pressure gauge from HF and will check oil pressure tomorrow.
 
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Old 02-29-2012, 04:32 AM
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I have always suspected that the stealership wifi talked to the truck when within range, and added new check engine light codes. Now it looks like parts stores are getting into that hidden sales strategy.....lol

When does the grinding occur, what rpm or speed, does it go away or change pitch as engine speeds up? Does it repeat if truck is parked or in motion? Does it change on turns? Does it change quickly when you apply brakes?
 
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Old 02-29-2012, 08:06 AM
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Just for what it is worth, I always tell people when making a suggestion about these White Shepherd products, which to use and follow the directions, I also suggest they start with fresh oil to get the best results.
I would suggest that hhalimi drain his engine to make sure no damage comes to any of the seals after using 2 bottles worth.
 
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
I have always suspected that the stealership wifi talked to the truck when within range, and added new check engine light codes. Now it looks like parts stores are getting into that hidden sales strategy.....lol
I am avoiding dealers like pest, there has been a magic pulling towards the parts store, even if I don't really need anything, they might be using some witchcraft
Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
When does the grinding occur, what rpm or speed, does it go away or change pitch as engine speeds up? Does it repeat if truck is parked or in motion? Does it change on turns? Does it change quickly when you apply brakes?
I can't hear it when the engine is cold, it is too loud at that time anyway due to possible exhaust leak.
The few times that I heard the grinding was after the engine has been stopped for 20-30 minutes and restarted, so not completely cold. It gets slightly worse when I give gas and when RPM goes up it disapears.
This morning no grinding, drove for about 50minutes and spend around 45 minutes for doctor's appointment and back still no grinding. came home another 40 minute drive and at home no grinding or ticking. Did not turn off the engine and came to work another 25minutes and the engine had the usuall ticking and no grinding.
And this is the sound of my ticking when engine is warm:
Ticking Disco - YouTube
 
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:24 AM
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I have the same ticking noise ...Mine is under the passengers side valve cover(right side) quiet when 1st started and after 10 15 minutes it ticks. I've heard so many senarios that I've decided to let it tick till it blows then I'll know what it was. Probably bad cam and lifters....may do a cam this summer but it is definatly from under the right valve cover...Turn radio 1 click higher
 
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:34 AM
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I came across these 2 interesting videos on you tube. This guy has a 97 D1, his tick is much louder, more like what I am hearing when the engine is cold, he took his engine apart and found that the oil pick up screw was loose. he was moving it and the ticking caused my moving the oil pick up screw is the exact ticking, which my car has when warm. But unfortunately, when he took his oil pump out he found some thing else too see for yourself:
The tick
land rover discovery 1997 engine noise part 1 - YouTube

Loose Oil Pick up screw
land rover discovery engine noise part 2 - YouTube

and the oil pump
land rover Oil Pump inspection discovery engine failure - YouTube
 


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