Do the Rover Saints have a recommendation for an engine flush product?
I can look inside the hole in the valve cover where the oil filler tube is, and I bet I could scrape enough black gunk from just there to make a decent sandwich.
So Please share your advice about a good crankcase/engine flush I should use, and if there are any tips for the procedure. And should I do it more than once?
I have not found a name of a product to use, but I did read I should use a cheapo oil after the flush, and then change that to the rotella after a few engine cycles.
Thanks again!
So Please share your advice about a good crankcase/engine flush I should use, and if there are any tips for the procedure. And should I do it more than once?
I have not found a name of a product to use, but I did read I should use a cheapo oil after the flush, and then change that to the rotella after a few engine cycles.
Thanks again!
I used the brand gunk and engine oil after around 1000 miles still looks pretty clean, will be using it one more time again with the next engine oil change. Make sure you read the instruction and don't drive it when the flush is in. Regular diesel fuel will be another cheaper alternative, newer transmission oil probably not very effective.
Last edited by hhalimi; Mar 6, 2012 at 06:41 PM.
Here is what I recommend, change the oil and use diesel motor oil, drive for 500 miles and change it again.
Use cheap oil filters for the short oil changes.
Then drive ~800 miles, add a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, drive for another 200 miles and change the oil once again, sticking with the diesel motor oil.
I say to use diesel oil for a few reasons, it is cheap, it is packed full of detergents to slowly clean your engine.
Off the shelf engine flushes are also a decent way to go, but be aware that they might break loose a ton of sludge all at once and clog your oil pick up or oil passage ways.
NEVER use diesel fuel, ATF, or other old wive's tales to flush your engine unless you want to be buying a new engine.
Once all is said and done you can change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles as long as you stick with a diesel oil or a full synthetic motor oil.
Use cheap oil filters for the short oil changes.
Then drive ~800 miles, add a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, drive for another 200 miles and change the oil once again, sticking with the diesel motor oil.
I say to use diesel oil for a few reasons, it is cheap, it is packed full of detergents to slowly clean your engine.
Off the shelf engine flushes are also a decent way to go, but be aware that they might break loose a ton of sludge all at once and clog your oil pick up or oil passage ways.
NEVER use diesel fuel, ATF, or other old wive's tales to flush your engine unless you want to be buying a new engine.
Once all is said and done you can change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles as long as you stick with a diesel oil or a full synthetic motor oil.
Here is what I recommend, change the oil and use diesel motor oil, drive for 500 miles and change it again.
Use cheap oil filters for the short oil changes.
Then drive ~800 miles, add a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, drive for another 200 miles and change the oil once again, sticking with the diesel motor oil.
I say to use diesel oil for a few reasons, it is cheap, it is packed full of detergents to slowly clean your engine.
Off the shelf engine flushes are also a decent way to go, but be aware that they might break loose a ton of sludge all at once and clog your oil pick up or oil passage ways.
NEVER use diesel fuel, ATF, or other old wive's tales to flush your engine unless you want to be buying a new engine.
Once all is said and done you can change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles as long as you stick with a diesel oil or a full synthetic motor oil.
Use cheap oil filters for the short oil changes.
Then drive ~800 miles, add a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil, drive for another 200 miles and change the oil once again, sticking with the diesel motor oil.
I say to use diesel oil for a few reasons, it is cheap, it is packed full of detergents to slowly clean your engine.
Off the shelf engine flushes are also a decent way to go, but be aware that they might break loose a ton of sludge all at once and clog your oil pick up or oil passage ways.
NEVER use diesel fuel, ATF, or other old wive's tales to flush your engine unless you want to be buying a new engine.
Once all is said and done you can change your oil and filter every 5,000 miles as long as you stick with a diesel oil or a full synthetic motor oil.
Yeah.. I just did both my head gaskets for ****s and giggles. I previously had flushed my engine with all sorts of products. When I tore the motor down it had to of been just as dirty and gunky as it ever was. I had to literally sand blast my valve covers to get the crud out from under them on the inside. Save your money. Just do frequent oil changes... until you reach head gasket day.
Or, do the old stand by and empty the crank case, refill with ATF and let idle for 30 minutes, with the hood down and not driving, then do a normal LOF but expect to change the oil again at around 1000 miles after running a can of Gunk engine flush thru the engine before draining the oil.
Alway use a good oil, like Shell Rotella, T-6, along with a Mobil1-301 oil filter.
Then of course there is a mechanical flush, by a shop, using B&Gs chemicals to totally clean it out, completely the first time.
Alway use a good oil, like Shell Rotella, T-6, along with a Mobil1-301 oil filter.
Then of course there is a mechanical flush, by a shop, using B&Gs chemicals to totally clean it out, completely the first time.
add 3oz of kerosene to the oil and drive it the day before each oil change, after a few oil changes it will be clean. You do not want to use anything that is going to be to harsh or it will not desolve old oil, it will cause the to fall off the surfaces and it will then block your oil puckup tube leading to no oil preasure. All that crap did not build up over night and you not going to remove it safely over night either.
Ive got about 34 years; (just not with LR's) so it must have been in one of those first 4 years
.
I learned it in the military thats how we used to flush the diesel in the 2.25 and tanks of course in an M1A1 Abrams you use 5 gallons.
It breaks the slug back down to oil so that it can be screened by the filter and drained.
I have used it in many a sludge motor and you can pull the valve covers let it run an in 10 minutes you will see oil come out of one push rod, then another and so on it's pretty cool to watch. Especially when you know the aterntive is to clean everything and punching oil returns.
Fresh oil will look 6-months old in a matter of days, and the 5 quarts you put in will come out as 5.5-6 quarts.
But like all good things more is not better if you put say a quart in it will do what the other flusher do and just lossen the crud up to plug everything up.
Just a couple oz's the day or a few hours before your oil change and it clean you right out.
.I learned it in the military thats how we used to flush the diesel in the 2.25 and tanks of course in an M1A1 Abrams you use 5 gallons.
It breaks the slug back down to oil so that it can be screened by the filter and drained.
I have used it in many a sludge motor and you can pull the valve covers let it run an in 10 minutes you will see oil come out of one push rod, then another and so on it's pretty cool to watch. Especially when you know the aterntive is to clean everything and punching oil returns.
Fresh oil will look 6-months old in a matter of days, and the 5 quarts you put in will come out as 5.5-6 quarts.
But like all good things more is not better if you put say a quart in it will do what the other flusher do and just lossen the crud up to plug everything up.
Just a couple oz's the day or a few hours before your oil change and it clean you right out.
Last edited by drowssap; Mar 7, 2012 at 10:51 AM.


