What do you all think? Three amigos, Nanocom points to abs sensor on back-left wheel. I tested the resistance on both sides of the connector and both have the same ohm reading. Experience tells me this means the sensor is good and that the hub is probably toast.

 

Where did you measure the resistance ? If at the connector near the sensor; it tells the sensor is in good compliance. But it does not matter a bit.

The reading of the produced sinewave signal has to be at the input pin of the SLABS computer. Takes an oscilloscope and contorsions to reach the connector to probe for the signal there. If the signal entering the computer is good and still fails, the computer is not seeing such or processing such.
Let me see if I can find an image and will add/edit.

 

I measured it by probing the end that connects to the sensor, but also the end that runs back to SLABS. Both were the same.

 

Well, seems I never attached the picture when I drove with an oscilloscope on the passenger seat Sorry, I remember such vividly, hooked to the computer input plug wires of each sensor.

That was ~2013. ----> https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...sensors-82897/

What I found is a "bad sensor" error does not mean the sensor is bad; means its signal is not being read by the computer. ( The sensor may be perfectly healthy )

 

How many miles on the truck? Usually hubs are not an issue until 140+ . A bit of work but best way to validate is left to right swap. Maybe start wtih sensor, then hub.

 

186k but no idea if original. I think I’ll actually swap them to check, good idea. OK to reuse the lock nut for this ya think?

 

I reused my center nut when I did my wheel hub since it was in good shape still and the replacement I got was a larger socket size which I didn't have around.

 

Yeah, it'll be fine, just restake it

 

ABS sensor faults are also commonly caused by a problem with the connector between the sensor and the harness running back to the SLABS. That's why Best4x4 advocates cutting out the connector and splicing the wires. That's also reputedly why LR changed its design to supply sensors with long wires designed without connectors to run all the way to the SLABS. Cutting out the connector and splicing the wires worked on my truck for a RR fault. That was 4½ years years ago and all is well. (I just remembered that instead of splicing I used the waterproof connectors linked below.)


More recently I chased a LF sensor fault. I again tried replacing the connector, but that didn't work. Then I spliced the wires. That didn't work. I decided that I would next try replacing the sensor with one of the long-cable versions, running it all the way to the SLABS.

Before buying a new sensor to do that, I decided to check out how I would connect the wires from the new sensor at the SLABS connector. The new-design sensors come with bare wire ends.

I was expecting that I'd be able to back the pins out of the SLABS connector to be either reused or replaced, or to at least to make it easier to splice in the new wire. So I contorted myself and removed the SLABS connector, but I was not able to figure out how to remove the pins.

But there was a silver lining! While I had the connector out I cleaned it and the SLABS side with electrical contact cleaner. After I plugged the connector back into the SLABS, the Three Amigos disappeared and haven't returned! That was a year and a half ago. Apparently the simple act of unplugging (cleaning) and reconnecting the connector did the trick.

So the moral of the story is that before replacing a hub is, as always, first try the simpler, less expensive solutions. That, along with diagnose, diagnose, diagnose.

 

Thanks for that info min.