I do not have enough information to help you address the starting issue, but with respect to the rapid loss of coolant and overheating let's first try the least expensive, most simple solution. Go to any auto parts store and get a new cap for the coolant reservoir. They often fail when they get older and no longer hold pressure, allowing coolant to escape via the overflow tube. The new cap will cost you around $15.

 

The engine started right up last night. The coolant reservoir was dry. When I added more coolant it spilled out somewhere so there is a system leak somewhere. No dash lights anywhere good sign. One pending code P1668 using Autel AL619 scanner so not worried. I will find the leak this weekend and fix. Then, I will do a compression check.

Thank goodness my wife had the presence of mind to pull over after redline no more than 500 feet (2x) then towed home. I may have averted a HG replacement for the time being. Compression test this Saturday will tell for sure.

 

Sir, you need a cooling system pressure test before you need a compression test.

You can get a cooling system pressure test kit at no cost from any major auto parts store, but at the rate you are losing coolant you may not need it. A friend of mine a few years ago had a crazy front cover gasket seal leak where the coolant drained out as fast as we poured it into the reservoir.

In any case, again, I'd do a cooling system test before a compression test. The problem you have is that you are losing coolant rapidly. Why not test where the coolant is going before worrying about compression?

 

good that it started. Like what they said to bleed the coolant, change cap and replace hoses if needed. Your starting issue was caused by wet electrical system and still guessing around the main fuse box and now causing the p1668 as pending. That code relates to IDM which could have caused you not to start when got wet.

 

So, the coolant was full when you started out.

So, it was fine for all of the months in between now and then? And I assume it was bled out properly...if it hadn't given you any problems afterwards (until now).

Even if you were half close to having it mixed right...it should have been fine into the teens.

So, it overheated on your wife, and you simply refilled (assumed) and drove it 200 miles without incident?

And it was full of fluid when she started out?

Now, you report seeing fluid leaking from beneath engine. Need more info, because if you are starting out with a full reservoir and it overheats within miles, sometimes, either you have air in the system from the first overheating (and the reservoir wasn't full when you started, causing the overheat) or your stat is bad.


Brian.

 

I found out why the car was over heating.


The heater hose to the lower radiator y-connector broke off at the connector nozzle. Coolant spilled out as my wife was driving last week. I ordered a lower radiator hose assembly. Will install next weekend. This should solve the lost coolant problem. But, need for head gasket replacement remains to be seen.

 

This weekend, I replaced the lower radiator hose assembly, burped system, 50/50 green coolant, OEM grey thermostat. All works. No overheating. Monitored coolant temperatures using DashCommand OBD-II temperature gauge. Drove 2x 15 minute drives, approx. 10 miles each up down hills freeways, temperature hovered steadily around 189-194 F. No leaks. No CEL, Amigoes, no pending or stored codes. temp gauge flat midway steady.


Looks like I averted a head gasket repair. Thanks to wife who pulled over upon overheating and towed car home.

 

Better take her shoe shopping!!!!

 

So it's been almost 6 months and no overheating, no CEL, no Amigos. Quiet and light free.