I have an exhaust leak out of my driver side head gasket. The dealer is going to buy the parts from his parts distributor. I know i can get "kits" from AB etc., but what will he need to order besides:
LH Head Gasket
2x Exhaust Manifold Gasket
1x Manifold to Pipe Gasket

I know Intake Gasket pieces will be needed, but don't know which or terminology.

 

do both heads it is false economy to only do one side, plus i will bet that the one head will need a cut so that will unbalance the engine.
Plus you have no idea of the condition of the head gaskets

 

Yep, going to pull both my heads when only one is leaking. Um no.

WTF, "unbalance the engine"?!? The amount removed by a machining would be in the order of several grams. Unless you mean compression ratio? Even then, the difference would be negligible.

Probably, the only way a few grams removal would affect the engine is if it was on something that rotates.

Heads do not rotate.

Also, in no way did I ask if I should do both sides. I asked for help putting together a parts list.

In no way have either of your posts on either of my threads been helpful. Please stop "two centing" my threads.

Cool, coined a new term, should be up on Urban Dictionary soon

 

You are new here, if you have all the answers why bother asking? Get used to getting someone's 2 cents when you ask a question, this is the internet.

I also agree that both sides might as well be done with these engines. The minimum you will need is a lower IM gasket, valley gasket, head gasket, o'ring for the upper hose, rocker cover gasket, head bolts and exhaust manifold gaskets. There is another o'ring but I forget which one it is.

There are some other nice things to do while you are in there like replace the throttle body heater plate and the thermostat and you will probably break a couple of those plastic coolant hoses.

 

Just order the kit from AB, it will have everything you need including new head bolts and all the gaskets you will need and under $200. I did my headgaskets a few months ago. My left was leaking coolant in the front. When I pulled the right I could tell it would be leaking in the front in the near future. I wish I would have taken a picture of the right to show the weak area. I also replaced the thermostat while I had it apart. Get several cans of carb cleaner to clean your intake out as mine was very dirty even after an induction cleaning with seafoam. See my pics.
You will need impact swivel sockets and impact extensions to get the rear headbolts out. An 8pt 12mm socket for the exaust manifold bolts and an 8pt 6mm for the rocker cover bolts. If you have any questions let me know. Do you have the RAVE manual?

 

8 pt sockets? Got a link for these? Or know which auto stores, Harbor Freight, etc, might carry them?

Can you not break the rear head bolts loose with a 1/2" breaker bar? I can't find a final torque value for them, just the 15ft-lb plus 180 degree turn.

Did you have your heads machined? How much did the shop have to take off?

 

Lipad, thanks for the parts list. Let me know if you think of any other parts.

 

Also, is "o'ring for the upper hose" the oring for the coolant outlet pipe?

 

Hi Rob, hey man I not trying to derail your train, and from the info you provided it sounds like you know your way around a tool box.

I dont have a parts list for you but, I do have some common sense things for you to consider.

Since you seem to have identified a leaking head gasket, and for a fact these Rover engines really do suck at holding head gasket seals, I dont understand why you would not consider doing both heads?
If you were working on a Chevy with cast iron parts thats a different story.

But this is a Rover and it is a KNOWN failure point that these engines dont seal well and that head gaskets are usually replaced about 80K miles or so, thats for every engine.
Anyway machining one head and not the other is going to increase the compression ratio on the side that you cut, not by much, but, it will.
Next to consider that this will also change the seating of the intake manifold and possibly lead to an intake leak for both heads
The higher compression of the left bank will introduce an unbalance to the crank , this will add a vibration to your engine and reduce the smoothness that was originally built in to it, this can cause other problems that over time can damage the transmission and front pump and TC.
Anyway I still suggest that you consider doing both heads/ gaskets, and magnaflux them and also inspect the cylinders for cracks.
You will also get the opportunity to have new valve seals installed as they should come in the head gasket kit, and you can inspect the valves and guides for any damage, as it is also a know wear item that the valve guides wear as well.
Also inspect the rocker arms and push rods and the lifters and the cam lobes usually the cam wears well but lifters can sometimes wear out due to faulty hardening.
Ah and make sure to install a new thermostat, this usually seems to be a causual factor in the overheating event, thats what warps the heads.
Goodluck on your rebuild, I hope it goes well, Merry Christmas, Stan

 

Thanks, I hadn't thought of mismatch heights concerning the seating of the intake manifold.

The only reason I'm trying to avoid doing both is:
1. Passenger side is not leaking.
2. It appears to have been already replaced.
3. Cost, I just paid cash for this truck a week ago.