Door locking questions.
'00 Disco, the passenger front door stopped locking and unlocking with the power door lock system. All the other doors locks work fine. I can lean over and lock and unlock the door, push down the vertical "tab" that sticks out of the door panel to lock, and use the inside door handle to unlock. Took off the door panel and tried the lock system with the button on the dash. I can feel a "thump" when unlocking, no movement of course, but no "thump" when locking. But mechanically, everything is working fine.
I use the door key to lock and unlock the truck, as I replaced the ignition lock set a while ago, when the key wore out with the Disco I set. So I use the Disco I key for the ignition, and the old key for the door. Which is not a problem for me, as all cars had 2 keys when I first started this crazy automotive lifestyle when I was a teenager in the '60's! Same with the current "lock the truck" routine. It just would be nice to have the lock system lock all 4 doors.
Question #2, the back door does not lock with the switch or the keyed driver's door. The alarm sets just fine, as it reminds me on the rare occasion I forget to disarm it with the key in the drivers door and open the back. Alarm goes off, and I race around to the driver's door to disarm the system.
You can lock the back door by pushing the button down, and unlock with the inside handle. I even have a straightened coat hanger with a hook to unlock the back door from the side door in the odd time it gets locked by pushing the tab down on the door.
These two problems did not happen at the same time, the back door gave out a while ago, so they are not related, except they are on the same truck and same symptoms.
So, any thoughts out there? Electrical, loose linkage, what should I look for?
Thanks as always!!
I use the door key to lock and unlock the truck, as I replaced the ignition lock set a while ago, when the key wore out with the Disco I set. So I use the Disco I key for the ignition, and the old key for the door. Which is not a problem for me, as all cars had 2 keys when I first started this crazy automotive lifestyle when I was a teenager in the '60's! Same with the current "lock the truck" routine. It just would be nice to have the lock system lock all 4 doors.
Question #2, the back door does not lock with the switch or the keyed driver's door. The alarm sets just fine, as it reminds me on the rare occasion I forget to disarm it with the key in the drivers door and open the back. Alarm goes off, and I race around to the driver's door to disarm the system.
You can lock the back door by pushing the button down, and unlock with the inside handle. I even have a straightened coat hanger with a hook to unlock the back door from the side door in the odd time it gets locked by pushing the tab down on the door.
These two problems did not happen at the same time, the back door gave out a while ago, so they are not related, except they are on the same truck and same symptoms.
So, any thoughts out there? Electrical, loose linkage, what should I look for?
Thanks as always!!
I'm having a similar issue where my driver rear door lock, and tailgate lock won't engage. My rear driver door won't lock or unlock unless I open it from the inside. If I remember correctly the tailgate interior handle has a direct mechanical connection to the door (not 100% sure). Whereas the remote lock requires a solenoid to lock and unlock. My guess is the solenoid is bad and or isn't getting enough power to move. I haven't attempted a fix yet as I have bigger problems to deal with rn. Please post how you fix it!
It's pretty easy to take the interior section of the tailgate off. just a few plastic clips and a couple of screws.
It's pretty easy to take the interior section of the tailgate off. just a few plastic clips and a couple of screws.
Good source for the replacement motors, in your opinion?
OEM ones get a bit pricey. I had one in my cart with Amazonia and I think it was $225, but it’s not available there any longer and I searched and can’t find one.
Another new option would be Atlantic British and they only show the tailgate and it’s $300
I couldn’t find it on the Rovers North site, which is a bummer. Maybe they are getting harder to come by? That sucks as I’m going to need one.
The other options are to find a part out and buy one used, or to do some googling or searching here and replacing the motor (that’s what usually tanks). I tried to do the motor replacement and pretty much failed, but many have done it. It’s just a little hobby like motor that in theory is easy enough to replace, but taking apart the actuator is a bit harder than it might seem.
Another new option would be Atlantic British and they only show the tailgate and it’s $300
I couldn’t find it on the Rovers North site, which is a bummer. Maybe they are getting harder to come by? That sucks as I’m going to need one.
The other options are to find a part out and buy one used, or to do some googling or searching here and replacing the motor (that’s what usually tanks). I tried to do the motor replacement and pretty much failed, but many have done it. It’s just a little hobby like motor that in theory is easy enough to replace, but taking apart the actuator is a bit harder than it might seem.
I recently saw some replacements advertised on aliexpress, no experience with them but I can say the Lexus motors sold on ebay do not have the correct length shaft and gear. What wears out is the brushes in the motor, so I take the lexus motors brush holder and install it on the LR housing. Not ideal because the commutator has some wear by the time the LR brushes wear out however imho easier than some of the shaft extension videos/write ups. BTW, the Minicooper door lock motors are identical to the LR motors, there may be some other options if you google minicooper door lock motors.
The complete lock actuators are getting harder to find. I used to get them on the Bay or Amazonnn fairly priced. Recently had to replace a few. The pass front and rear decided to check out. A great source for used ones is Will Tillery (Roverguy). He gives 2yr warranty. The other option is to replace the motor DIY. Source motors on Ebay.
I concur that a used motor from a boneyard truck is a good choice.
If you can't source one locally, which is getting very much increasingly difficult to do, Will is a fabulous resource. Mr. Tillery has been a known and widely respected member of this community for over the 15+ years I have been here.
It was once said that if you ordered parts from Will Tillery, they would arrive at your door before you hung up the phone. He's that good.
And not just parts from salvage trucks, new parts too.
I met him years ago when I stopped in at his place in Danville, VA before he moved several years ago. Will is an absolutely trustworthy seller.
If you can't source one locally, which is getting very much increasingly difficult to do, Will is a fabulous resource. Mr. Tillery has been a known and widely respected member of this community for over the 15+ years I have been here.
It was once said that if you ordered parts from Will Tillery, they would arrive at your door before you hung up the phone. He's that good.
And not just parts from salvage trucks, new parts too.
I met him years ago when I stopped in at his place in Danville, VA before he moved several years ago. Will is an absolutely trustworthy seller.
I concur that a used motor from a boneyard truck is a good choice.
If you can't source one locally, which is getting very much increasingly difficult to do, Will is a fabulous resource. Mr. Tillery has been a known and widely respected member of this community for over the 15+ years I have been here.
It was once said that if you ordered parts from Will Tillery, they would arrive at your door before you hung up the phone. He's that good.
And not just parts from salvage trucks, new parts too.
I met him years ago when I stopped in at his place in Danville, VA before he moved several years ago. Will is an absolutely trustworthy seller.
If you can't source one locally, which is getting very much increasingly difficult to do, Will is a fabulous resource. Mr. Tillery has been a known and widely respected member of this community for over the 15+ years I have been here.
It was once said that if you ordered parts from Will Tillery, they would arrive at your door before you hung up the phone. He's that good.
And not just parts from salvage trucks, new parts too.
I met him years ago when I stopped in at his place in Danville, VA before he moved several years ago. Will is an absolutely trustworthy seller.
I may have caught them in a move or something, but just wondering as I love to give folks like that business to keep the addiction alive.


