I posted a few weeks ago about a coolant leak.

It started with a few drips which I thought that I correctted by replacing the throttle body warming gasket last spring (some leakage there).

Anyway, what started out as a quart/month over the summer has now became a quart every 25 miles. Originally, I was hoping to ride it out and just replace the engine when the oil pump fails again (should that ever happen).

I had a local shop pressure the check the system this weekend and found the passenger side head gasket to be leaking. With the size of the leak and hope lost of it being an easy fix, I have to break down and replace them.

I can get the gaskets and head bolts from Rovahfarm for about $175ish, which is about $75 less than AB.

http://www.rovahfarm.com/DiscoIEngine.htm

The entire labor cost is beyond my reach at the moment, so I'm going to give it a go myself and maybe hire a moonlighting mechanic to drop by a few times to double check things.

Anyway, I have on hand (in order of importance): a garage, a propane heater, and lots of tools including a complete metric socket and wrench set, impact wrench with sockets, and I bought a good torque wrench just today.

I've got the Rave manual on hand and have also been reading up posts here.

However, I'm lacking the practical know how to put it all together and need basic advice.

For instance, after lubing up the exhaust manifold bolts, can I take an impact wrench to get them off (it's a new toy that I'm eager to use : ) Use it with the head bolts, maybe? Will I just break things with it? I'm a bit on the feeble side, so I'm inclined to use aids when and where possible...

When I put the new head gaskets on, do I apply any coating or just bolt them in place?

Speaking of bolting the head gaskets, do I start by torquing inside out or outside in?

Feel free to post any advice about the little things that we often take for granted. Odds are that I didn't know about it...

For what it's worth, I previously swapped the spark plug wires out. So, I've managed to get about 1/3 of the way there already. I think that I can go all the way if I go slow and label everything.

 

First your on the right track asking questions before going near the truck with tools in your hands
Next if you read the RAVE WSM (work shop manual) it will give a removal and tightening sequence for the head bolts.
I would not use the impact on the head bolts (to easy to damage the block threads) or the manifold to head bolts.
You can use the gun on the header pipe bolts after they are sprayed with PB blaster
Head gaskets go on dry no sealants to clean the mating surfaces use a fresh razor blade held perpendicular to the surface this will prevent you from gouging the block or heads ____ < I >____ I = the razorblade ___________ = surface
Make sure you take pictures with your digital camera this will aid in refitting when the heads come back from the machine shop

 

I just did my head gaskets and got the hg kit from D.A.P. www.dap-inc.com $175 for entire kit including new head bolts.May want to check them out.

 

i would beg to differ with mrmerlin and say you will probably need the impact to remove the head bolts, but the header bolts i would do by hand. usually they are rusty and youll snap them in a heartbeat. when i did mine i started spraying the header bolts first thing then periodically throughout the teardown every chance i got, and by the time i had to remove them they came right off. also the headbolts have to be degreed when putting them back on, meaning after a certain torque is reached you have to turn them a certain number of degrees. i had a mechanic friend help me and it took the two of us to get it to turn that number, so if your feeble as you said you will need some help. i'm 26 and i ain't ashamed to say i couldn't even get it close.