drip..drip..drip..
#1
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hey guys (and girls) I posted on this awhile back. I found a large puddle of oil on the drive one morn and had to park the D1 until now, just looked at it and put some dye in it and going to get a light tomorrow, I saw a steady drip coming from just behind the oil filter tho where there is what looks like a line or port going in.. can anybody tell me what part that could be? I'll post more when I get the uv light to it in the morn.
#2
#3
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sounds like front-cover/timing chain cover action.
Unbeknownst to me (until just recently), on the front of the block sits this front cover which serves as the mounting point for not only your water pump but also your oil pump and the oil filter adapter.
It's not a fun job replacing the front cover gasket, I'm about halfway through the job and hope to wrap it up tonight...I was leaking coolant from the driver's side water port.
Unbeknownst to me (until just recently), on the front of the block sits this front cover which serves as the mounting point for not only your water pump but also your oil pump and the oil filter adapter.
It's not a fun job replacing the front cover gasket, I'm about halfway through the job and hope to wrap it up tonight...I was leaking coolant from the driver's side water port.
#5
#7
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if you are contemplating doing this job yourself, I highly, highly recommend getting under the truck now and spraying down the crossmember bolts with PB Blaster or some other sort of penetrating oil. It also wouldn't hurt to saturate any bolts you see at the front cover as well as the PAS pulley bolts, crankshaft/harmonic balancer bolt etc.
I'd repeat this every day for several days until you are ready to tackle the job. Also it doesn't hurt to have a MAP torch on hand. Hammer on those 8 crossmember bolts and spray them down.
I had a helluva time getting the crossmember out, I had to grind out two bolts, I broke a bunch of them off and I'll have to worry about that later. After the crossmember is out, you're instructed to disconnect the transmission oil cooler line that interferes with the oil pan. I recommend holding off on disconnecting this otherwise you're going to be laying in a puddle of ATF while you work. Instead disconnect the 3 oil-cooler line retaining clips first.
-Drain your motor oil.
-Drain your coolant.
-Jack up the body of the truck.
Remove the bolts for the oil pan up to the point where it's ready to come out (12 bolts on bottom of pan, 3 nuts I believe at front of the pan, 2 bolts going UPWARD into recesses of pan, 4 bolts on one side of bellhousing and 2 bolts on the other side of bellhousing...THEN remove that transmission oil cooler line.
From here you have to remove the oil pickup.
Then you move to the front of the motor, take off your fan, you'll need a thin wrench, specialized tool. Take off yer serpentine belt. The manual says to take off the PAS pulley but if you decide to go that route I recommend trying to break the bolts free before you take off the belt (don't back the bolts out too far or you're going to be sorry). I took off the tensioner pulley instead to make room to get the front cover off.
On the front cover you have to unhook an oil line as well as a couple of sensors before that badboy wants to come out. 9 bolts holding it in...take your time unless you want to break the bolts off in the block...yes they will break, the hardware stinks...and rover will charge you $107 for 9 bolts (I believe they are 7-12 each + shipping).
Front cover will come off with some resistance because it's sitting on dowels.
While you've got it torn down this far, check the deflection on your timing chain and see if you want to replace it for $100 while you're at it.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. =)
I'm at the part now where the front cover is back on and I get to put the oil pickup and pan on next...it's going to be a blast.
I'd repeat this every day for several days until you are ready to tackle the job. Also it doesn't hurt to have a MAP torch on hand. Hammer on those 8 crossmember bolts and spray them down.
I had a helluva time getting the crossmember out, I had to grind out two bolts, I broke a bunch of them off and I'll have to worry about that later. After the crossmember is out, you're instructed to disconnect the transmission oil cooler line that interferes with the oil pan. I recommend holding off on disconnecting this otherwise you're going to be laying in a puddle of ATF while you work. Instead disconnect the 3 oil-cooler line retaining clips first.
-Drain your motor oil.
-Drain your coolant.
-Jack up the body of the truck.
Remove the bolts for the oil pan up to the point where it's ready to come out (12 bolts on bottom of pan, 3 nuts I believe at front of the pan, 2 bolts going UPWARD into recesses of pan, 4 bolts on one side of bellhousing and 2 bolts on the other side of bellhousing...THEN remove that transmission oil cooler line.
From here you have to remove the oil pickup.
Then you move to the front of the motor, take off your fan, you'll need a thin wrench, specialized tool. Take off yer serpentine belt. The manual says to take off the PAS pulley but if you decide to go that route I recommend trying to break the bolts free before you take off the belt (don't back the bolts out too far or you're going to be sorry). I took off the tensioner pulley instead to make room to get the front cover off.
On the front cover you have to unhook an oil line as well as a couple of sensors before that badboy wants to come out. 9 bolts holding it in...take your time unless you want to break the bolts off in the block...yes they will break, the hardware stinks...and rover will charge you $107 for 9 bolts (I believe they are 7-12 each + shipping).
Front cover will come off with some resistance because it's sitting on dowels.
While you've got it torn down this far, check the deflection on your timing chain and see if you want to replace it for $100 while you're at it.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. =)
I'm at the part now where the front cover is back on and I get to put the oil pickup and pan on next...it's going to be a blast.
#9
#10