So, I was reading the stickies and got that pretty much the 1300 series is the correct joint. The 1310 is a bit larger, I assume it requires different yokes. Everybody seems pretty happy with the $14 joints...makes me nervous, the Spicers seem to be running about $10 more. So, have you properly beat on the $14 joints? I suppose you have...
I guess my real question is regarding the larger 1310's...what's the dollar hit on that set-up? And have any of you ever broken a serviced and properly working 1300?
Thanks
PS just got done w/ 2 new coils from BP Utah and a very nice wire set from CarQuest. Which solved all my random on all holes, as well as, the continual 4 & 7 misses...also, when cold the coils worked better until they warmed up...then it was like a jump rope contest...

 

Stay with the standard size, make sure to replace the centering ball and grease them twice a year including the 2 slip shafts.

 

The correct service interval for u-joints in normal use is every 5,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first, not "twice a year" which is pretty meaningless.

 

While I haven't broken my 1300's (by the way, make sure they have USA on them,) I did (stupidly) not service mine for two years through two winters and when I got back on schedule (this Summer,) I inspected them and no noise, play, or anything. So, for what that's worth, they seem to be holding up very well despite the relatively cheap cost and my negligence.

-Anthony

 

Give Justin a call he can build you whatever you want!

 

If you want to buy a good one, go call Bill Davis at Great Basins Rovers, he makes and sells by far the strongest drive shafts on the market.

 

The Tom Woods shafts must be pretty decent too... I've been reading some of the Australian forums, and people over there are getting them from a company that imports them, and they are willing to pay $500-$600 for them!

 

Everyone has a preference on which one they like i have read about both the GBR And the Tom woods breaking but so far nothing about the dynamic driveline prop shaft breaking. That does not mean its not possible by no means but it may also be because the gbr and t-woods are more used? I don't know man but i like the one i have and stressed it pretty hard and no problems. For the money i would say its well worth it and like i said Justin has and can build you the same exact prop shaft and even paint it green if you want. Lol and it will come with 4 grease nips

 

I want 5.

3 u-joints, the DC, and the slip.

 

The shop is in your area they may give you extra just for that!