I see a lot of talk here about the drive shaft, vibration, and watch the f* out if your drive shaft fails. My Disco has 140K on it and is starting to vibrate a little. I've had it aligned and have just recently put on new tires (and had the balanced, of course). From what I've been reading, the first thing I should do is regrease my drive shafts, and possibly replace them. A few questions:

1. I'm pretty sure this is what LR calls the "propellor shaft" in the factory service manual (section 47 in the 95/98 MY version), right?
2. In increasing complexity, should I:
1. Regrease using the grease nipples (anything else I should do)?
2. Overhaul them (or should I not even bother with this and....)
3. Replace them altogether
3. Is this as easy as it looks?

Thanks in advance.

 

Also, is it a good/bad idea to just replace the u-joints, and will the Durango trick work in a Series I?

 

If you have driveshaft vibration, you need to get under the truck and figure out where it's worn. The possibilities are: U-joints, spline slip-joint, or Constant Velocity (if you have one). If the U-joint/s are worn and exhibit a slight amount of 'play', then get them replaced. If the wear is in the Constant Velocity (if present), or the splined slip joint, make sure they are well greased. You can't remove wear from these areas by greasing, but you can extend the service life by keeping them greased. Depending on the severity of the wear of the slip-joint, for example, you could drive on it for years w/o replacing it. Eventually the vibration will increase to the point where it will cause wear on other components. I'm not advocating driving with a worn driveshaft for years, just that it can be done (and personally done it). A lot depends on how fast you drive your vehicle.

Given the reports on this site, I'd say its a safe move to replace your front driveshaft's U-joints if they show wear. If the splined end is worn, then consider replacement. As I indicated on another post, Driveshaft Superstore in Phoenix, AZ is a great resource for new driveshafts(800-845-6326) . I don't work for them, but our Jeep driveshaft had a worn spline that after years of use and about 175k mi. was time to resolve. Getting a new one welded on was about $250 from our local driveshaft outfit and that didn't include the U-joints or CV. I bought a brand new custom-made unitfrom D/SS for $225 with all new U-joints, Constant Velocity and a much more robust splined end and U-joints. The tube was also larger and heavier. I would definitely recommend them. You sometimes see their name in the Jeep magazines on custom projects.

Most people don't grease the splined or CV section of a driveshaft properly and that leads to failure. Many Mfgrs don't have greasable u-joints anymore either. Also, grease products are made from different base compounds and are sometimes incompatible with each other. Different shops use different kinds. Some greases when put together form a watery liquid and loose their lubricating capacity. That's why you should stick to one kind of grease and keep using it. I don't ever let shops grease my vehicles. Ya just never know what they're gonna use.

 

Propellor shaft = driveshaft. I guess because it propels the vehicle. I had never heard of that term until I got my LR, kind of funny. You can just grease them if you have nipples on each joint, but if you don't know the service history I would just replace them at that mileage anyways. They are difficult (but not expensive)to replace on a Disco 2. I think it might be different on a Disco I though (no cardan joint?), not too sure though. It crazy how many posts there are these days about frontdriveshafts and 03's with oil pressure problems.

 

Hey
I don't know if you read my previous post titled drive shaft flew off, but I must tell you how IMPORTANT it is for you to get the drive shaft checked out ASAP. I would act with a sense of urgency on this matter. Treat that vibration like an emergency! I mean it. I had no real indicators of a failing or worn shaft, and don't know if it was actually my part or if I hit something. But I am sitting in a hotel in bumf*** trying to replace my d shaft and my transmission. It is very very common for the d shaft to hit and puncture the t case. This is by far the worst auto problem I have ever had to deal with.

PLEASE GET IT CHECKED BY AN EXPIERENCED ROVER TECH!!!!

 

I think I'm going to just replace my U joints and play it safe.

 

i dont think it is such a problem with d1's. d2's have non greasable u-joints and the double cardon joint at the t-case is the one that fails, only d2's have the double cardon u-joint.
not to say that a d1 d-shaft cannot do the same thing, but all the ones i have heard about have been d2's.

 

Anyone know if I can use the Durango DS? It looks like this only works on the DII, but I'd like to know for sure.

 

Lock your transfer case and pull your front shaft. Drive to the shop and drop it off. Unless it is bent, you should be ok. They can re-build it with new u-joints and replace any seals in the slip shaft that are leaking. $90. That is what you should expect. I would not try the durango trick.

The first thing you should have posted is your year. It will tell us if you have a rotoflex coupling on the rear driveshaft. It will be the coupler on the rear of the rear driveshaft. If it looks bad, replace it. From your manual quote, I would guess you have a D1, in which case, you don't need to worry about the front shaft as much. Please not that I said as much... I would still re-buld it. I have a 97 with 150K and just rebuilt both shafts for $186 with me taking them to a different shop and having them pulled for a total of $40. ($20 for each shaft to pull/replace)

 

double cardon=rotoflex?

Mine's a '98 DI- I still haven't been under the truck to look at the drive shafts, but, from what I've read, mine's completely u-joint- no rotoflex, cardon joint, constant velocity. Considering I have a 2" lift, would I be better off just doing u-joints, or should I replace the whole thing (and maybe do a modded piece to better accomodate the lift)?