Driveshaft, and differential/transfer case change
#1
Driveshaft, and differential/transfer case change
Alright so driving today I heard a weird metallic sound when accelerating at lower speeds and a vibration when on the gas at higher speeds, on my list of upgrades was a new driveshaft since the one that’s on my 03 is the original non greasable but at 70k miles I think it’s time to change so it doesn’t grenade and the sounds I just assume are from it. I will be putting on the lucky 8 driveshaft. While I’m doing this should I change the fluid in both diffs and the transfer case? Atlantic British sells the kit with all the oil and the new metal plugs and washers for 169$ is this a good deal. I’m sure I could get the fluid cheaper but I also want the newer ones because the plastic ones currently I imagine will get stripped
#2
I think the service interval for the diffs and transfer case is 30k miles. If you don't know that it's been done, I'd go ahead and change them. Easy job - just make sure you fill the diffs with the truck level (as having one end or the other jacked up will mess up the fill level.
I'd just buy the gear oil at your local shop instead of having it shipped. I got the brass fill plugs off eBay for $10 (comes with o-rings). Should save you some money over the AB kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-...3/201288484703
For the propshaft, I'd just go ahead and buy the part from Lucky8 and their propshaft tool, as well. Makes getting the shaft on/off much easier. Jack up one of the front wheels while you're doing the repair so that you can spin it to rotate the shaft around and get access to all of the bolts.
If I were you I'd probably not drive it until the driveshaft is changed.
I'd just buy the gear oil at your local shop instead of having it shipped. I got the brass fill plugs off eBay for $10 (comes with o-rings). Should save you some money over the AB kit.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Rover-...3/201288484703
For the propshaft, I'd just go ahead and buy the part from Lucky8 and their propshaft tool, as well. Makes getting the shaft on/off much easier. Jack up one of the front wheels while you're doing the repair so that you can spin it to rotate the shaft around and get access to all of the bolts.
If I were you I'd probably not drive it until the driveshaft is changed.
#4
I just use 75 or 80W-90 conventional. I don't think the brand matters. I definitely wouldn't pay $20 a quart from AB. Some people say to use 90W-140 heavy duty oil, but it's pretty expensive and harder to find.
You'll also want a pump to push the fluid in. Most of the auto parts store ones get the job done, but they're not the best quality. I bought a nicer one from Amazon but don't want to recommend it as I haven't actually used it yet.
You'll also want a pump to push the fluid in. Most of the auto parts store ones get the job done, but they're not the best quality. I bought a nicer one from Amazon but don't want to recommend it as I haven't actually used it yet.
#6
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#9
Changed all of what I said the driveshaft was very easy and straight forward with the two 14mm wrenches. My new hardware wjth the shaft was more 9/16 so I switched one when putting it back on. I used mobil 1 synthetic 75w90 in the diffs and case. And pumped it all in wjth a cheap 9$ pump Becuase my electronic one broke and I’ve noticed improvement right away I’m lucky I didn’t keep driving on that original driveshaft it wasn’t great at all when removed
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